Welcome to the complete Leopard Gecko care guide
Today we're gonna go in depth of every part of reptile
husbandry that I think you need to know
to care for leopard geckos. The things i'm gonna be telling you
are based on my research and experience over the past
4 years. I guess i've cared for over a dozen
leopard geckos now and they've all done wonderfully
So I am confident that everything I'll be giving you
today should be helpful
of course there is more than one way to care for any reptile uh
so remember to do more research
find more resources but i'm gonna tell you
everything that I know about them and how to keep them happy and healthy
Before we get started, goherping has more merchandise
on the shop. No leopard gecko mech right now but
if you keep following, maybe there will be some in the future
there is a few designs over there so you can check that out
also at goherping.com/leopardgeckos you can find the complete
updated care guide of everything I'll be talking about in this video
so you can follow along by reading or it can just be
a great resource to go back to if you have a certain question about
about a specific type of husbandry. Finally, last
thing before we get started, all the supplies I use to care for my leopard gecko
is linked down in the kit below, everything is just laid out
you can buy directly on amazon, you can buy all at once if you want
or select different items you want to use. So if you go to kit.com/goherping or the link below
You can find everything I use
And I also get a partial commission on everything on that list
So its a great way to help out. So now we can get started in the care
First off lets go ahead and get into the enclosure
Size wise there is a lot of argument over this
and everything i'll be talking about in this video but
size is the very first thing. A single leopard gecko, some people will say
can be fine in a 10 gallon
some say 15, some say 20, some say larger
Personally I suggest a 20 gallon or larger for a single leopard gecko
So giving them space to explore is beneficially along with
the fact you'll want a temperature gradient in the enclosure
we'll get to this later when we get to the temperature stuff
so I think giving them this extra space to move around
and explore is pretty beneficially along with the fact
that you'll want a temperature gradient in your enclosure
this means that basically they can choose what temperature they're gonna be
because they are ectothermic or coldblooded
so you want to give them the option to actually be warmer or cooler
since they can't regulate that with their body
but we'll get to that with temperature later but having more space
means that there can be more options as to what temperature
your animal wants to be at
Now what about housing multiple geckos together and how much space will they need
Well I recently did a video
on housing leopard geckos together. I have done it
with 2 or 3 pairs of female geckos
lets go ahead and get this out of the way male geckos will probably fight to the death
a male and females will probably have eggs
which maybe that's what you're into, if you want to breed geckos
This is not the video for you, you'll need to find actual gecko breeders (ss:not bhb)
and 2 females together might sometimes do okay
but like I said, its very iffy
there is a lot of things to it so I suggest go watch the full video I did
On whether you can house them together
Short answer is technically maybe
But its best not to. And if you do still wanna house them together
20 gallons will be pretty tight for two animals
you can use glass, wood, plastic or whatever
kind of enclosure you want. As you can see I tend
to prefer glass but other types do work
these do change different variables
when it comes to the actual husbandry and setting up the right temperatures
and humidity in your enclosure. So basically
I won't even argue about it, just use what you want
as long as it's the right size(ss:within reason), they all work perfectly
fine as long as they're set up correctly
Lets go ahead and hop into substrate
This is probably known as the most
debatable topic when it comes to leopard geckos
you'll often see or hear about
sand. I'm sure this is something you've heard of
if you looked into leopard geckos kind of at all
Should you use sand? Can you use sand? Will it kill them?
How quickly will it kill them
There is a lot of stuff about it. Right off the bat
I have used sand once. I highly regret it
That was not fun
And luckily
I removed it before anything kinda serious happened
Leopard geckos do not live on sand in the wild
They're from places like Afghanistan, its rocky
and i'm sure obviously there is gonna be
dry types of soil around, probably with some sand mixed in
Lets go ahead and get this out of the way
If you think leopard geckos live 100 percent completely on sand in the wild
You're wrong (ss:savage)
To say they don't ever interact with sand
naturally is also pretty wrong because
of course there is gonna be a lot of variation
and they live across a pretty vast landscape uh
however, just bc something is natural doesn't always mean
it's gonna be best. I say this a lot, there are reasons that
animals' lifespans are longer in captivity
than in the wild in most cases. Of course there
are certain species where their husbandry just has not been perfected or if they just
just can't live in captivity like i dunno
Orcas or something. I dunno about sea life don't ask me (ss:pls ask him)
Long story short, leopard geckos
are pretty much always gonna live longer in captivity bc you can take away those dangers
Why is sand dangerous according to some people?
Myself included (ss:and me!)
That's because there's a thing called impaction which in animals
is essentially when their gut just gets filled
with stuff that they either can't digest
or pass when they consume it. The reason not all substrates cause impaction
are many are not loose substrates. A loose substrate
is something that is- ya know is loose
like dirt or sand or
gravel or whatever because its loose, i don't know how else to say it
and non loose substrates are things like paper towels, reptilecarpets
uh tile
newspaper things like that
so I always use non loose substrates but we'll get to some loose substrates in a minute
but anyways back to impaction, uh loose substrates can
be ingested by animals
leopard geckos specifically, they-they just lick everything
that's how they sense stuff
so they're just always gonna be licking and every so often they might pick up
a couple pieces of sand. If they're fed directly
on the substrate, like you just toss an insect in and they
eat it off the substrate. There is a pretty decent chance they're gonna get a mouthful of
substrate with that. Even if you do
feed in a bowl, they still lick a lot of stuff
You might say I'm being over protective
but why not be? Sand isn't that amazing
if it was like some ridiculously amazing
like this 10 times better than any thing else, then I might consider taking that risk
but I don't really see the reason for that when there is so many other
really good options that you can use. And the reason that some of these substrates
will work while sand does not, is that sand is made
from quartz or rocks
and that takes a long time for the body to digest
the stomach acids can eventually break that down but it takes a long time
so this means that it often builds up in the animal
before they can past it or digest it, uh that's why things like
maybe coconut fiber, if an animal ingest some of that
its soft, it's just a type of dirt
its pretty easy to break down and pass, it doesn't get clog
or stuck in the animal. ideally you don't want them to eat any substrate
but that's why sand and walnut shells tend to be on the top
of what you should not use. People also argue
that you can use sand 100% just fine
if your husbandry is perfect
bc you'll have no problems
The thing I don't understand about this argument is just personally
I've gotten so many really depressing emails and pictures
of people's dead animals
why did they die? They get an autopsy, they check it themselves
or whatever, turns out their gut was filled with sand
and they were impacted
they could not ingest any food, they were getting no nutrition
They just basically died. And lets say your husbandry has to be 100%
perfect, whatever that is
in order for it to actually ingest sand
if an animal's husbandry can be 90% perfect and everything is fine
except for the fact it can't pass sand
then is it still really worth taking the risk with sand?
uh for one you can't tell if an animal is impacted
until it's really bad or until its essentially too late
You might be able to do a surgery
For one, its a very tiny animal, it's very hard thing to do that kind of thing
but most of the time, once you can see their gut is completely filled
its kinda just like welp
it might die. Uh I've done a video on impaction
its really old though so I might do an updated one
that;s the best little summery I can do
to say I personally suggest you don't use sand with your leopard geckos
which should you use? Well like I said, I like using non loose substrates
So stuff like -I-I generally use reptile carpet
the thing with reptile carpet is that it can be a little more difficult to clean
like paper towel is nicer bc you can just pull all the sheets out
put new sheets in and it's all clean
but paper towel is kinda ugly. It does the job, it works perfectly
You can feel free to use that. I still use it with
temporary leopard geckos bc it's just easy and efficient
but reptile carpet does look nicer and it can be washed
sometimes I just wash it with water if there is a little bit of stuff on
and occasionally you can just throw it in the wash, throw it in the dishwasher
Some people say that fibers will come off uh and your gecko will eat those
I've used reptile carpet for about 4 years and I have not seen any fibers
on the brands that i've used
that come out at least
I've heard people say their claws will get stuck in it and get torn out
the shortest thing I can say is that I've never had this happen
and I guess anything is possible. There are these little things
personally I do feel comfortable using that
if you don't you can go with newspaper or paper towels (ss:go with paper towels not newspaper)
and although I don't like using loose substrates with leopard geckos
dry coconut fiber is a pretty common option for them
Uh you can get this as eco earth from zoomed
or plantation soil from exoterra
uh the only thing about this is because you want to use it while it's dry
it tends to get dusty in my experience, and I do sometimes
worry that dry animals will end up inhaling a lot of this dust
and, am I being over protective? Maybe but that's how I roll
But I do love using eco earth and other coconut fibers
with animals that need higher humidity
bc it works wonderfully when it is moist
but leopard geckos come from dry areas
and having moist substrates can cause issues which we'll get to soon
that was a long substrate segment but uh hopefully that helps out
lets go get into hiding places for your animal
uh hides are basically a necessity for every reptile out there or at least a lot of the common species
and the reasoning for this is so that they can stay hidden and feel safe and secure
and not just out in the open all the time
how many hides or hiding places should you have
well the very first thing I tend to say is it doesn't necessarily
have to be some like reptile hide
you don't have to buy it from the store and it says like reptile hide
there is a lot of ways to make hiding places for your animal
whether it's using plants, live or fake
different pieces of whatever decor
that they can hide under, hide around, get themselves kinda into
whatever. It doesn't have to be
through like real hides. I use fake plants alot for this
but that is the easiest and most effective way
to make it really nice and dark in there for them
so they feel super comfy. how many hides do you use
well for one gecko, the general rule is to use 3 hides
bc you want one on the warm side of the enclosure
one on the cooler side of their enclosure, which again we'll get to temperatures soon (ss:u said this a long time ago)
and one called a humid hide or a moist hide
or whatever you wanna call it
this hide makes it easier for your gecko to shed off it's skin
because if you don't know, reptiles shed their skin just all in one piece
like people do,mine- I'm kinda shedding right now I guess bc we all are
but geckos, like other reptiles, do it all in one piece
and when it's more humid in a certain area
it loosens up the skin, it's not as crackly and dry
and it just peels off more easily. So you can make it easier for your gecko to do this
By creating a humid hide. Personally I just take a plastic tupperware
tuurperware?
Personally I just take a plastic tupperware, cut a hole in it
make sure to sand it down or melt it or smth so it's not sharp around the edges
and put something like paper towels
or you can use coconut fiber but it gets everywhere so I like using papertowels
and I spray it down every couple of days to keep it moist in there
can I just like
put a moist hide in there when my gecko is shedding?
thats a somewhat common question
The problem is that leopard geckos go into shed so quickly that you can't even tell
like one hour they'll look perfectly normal
an hour later they'll be all like
dull and look like they're bout to shed and a couple hours later it comes off
so this might all happen
in the middle of the night. You might never see your gecko shed
they also eat it bc they reabsorb the nutrients from the shed
it's weird I know. They're just eating their dead skin
but it works, it's efficient, it's effective
that's why you're never gonna see shed in your enclosure
There might be little bits that they missed
and stuck shed is a thing that can happen in geckos
but hides, make as many hiding places as you want
just try and make sure your gecko can stay comfortable on the cool side
comfortable on the warm side
and have a place to go to that is more humid to make it easy to shed
that- hopefully that covers it well
Next up water. This is pretty quick but something that goes in your enclosure
Put a water bowl in there, they might wanna drink
they can go a long time without moisture bc they are from very dry areas
but keeping a water bowl filled with nice fresh clean water
as often as possible is great. You can change it our daily, multiple times a week
multiple times a day if you want, the more the better
I mean that's a lot of water but it works
tap water is something I don't suggest you use
bc it has chemicals like chlorine, chloride and ammonia
uh if you're using city water, well water, it depends on what you, your city, your family or your neighborhood puts in it
But I did whole video talking about all the types of water
short answer is that I have found reptisafe is the most effective
you just add some drops in and its done
but if you want to be cheaper and not spend that much money on reptisafe
there are home remedies you can do to make it safe
again you can watch that video with the i card below or the link below
I mean i card above, link below
Next up to temperature and humidity, first lets go over temperatures
short answer is I keep my geckos at about a 90 to
94 degree hotspot, usually just around 91
if it's 1 degree off, who cares, I mean it's good to be like accurate
but they're not gonna notice, but uh 90
is the general consensus in the community of what works best
based on their natural habitat
and just with breeders and keepers and stuff
uh how should you heat your leopard gecko up (ss:in a mircowave)
some people use heat lamps, some use undertank heaters (uth)
I highly suggest using uth, this is because they're not basking animals (ss:false)
so the quickest and easiest and most
comfortable way to get that heat into your animal
is when the animal can just lie down, get their belly on some heat
and its so nice, well its a heat pad, that's what it does
it heats their belly up, make sure you use a thermostat with these
although technically I do get buy without using a thermostat (ss:DONOTDOTHAT)
with a couple of my animals, it's much harder, its much
more complicated and you can say it's much more riskier
I'll link some thermostats down below
they range from what, 20-50 dollars
but what a thermostat does is that you can just set it at a temperature
and it does it the rest for you. plug the heat mat into the thermostat
you put the probe of the thermostat beneath the enclosure
where you want the temperature to be right and you
just set the thermostat to what you want
now uh what I do is put this to one side of the enclosure
uh there is a lot of sizes to heat mats
some people say you should have a heat mat
that is half the size of your enclosure
thats pretty big, uh usually I go with a quarter to a third of the enclosure
usually a third is best but because leopard geckos are smaller
it's pretty easy to get an area that can cover their entire body
and as the enclosure goes down, as the gecko walks across the enclosure
ideally it's gonna get cooler
the cool side there is no exact number for this
usually I just make sure it goes down to 80 degrees
it could go cooler because if they can get to the warm spot then it doesn't matter too much
but about 80, maybe 75, that's a bit lower
but that works, just so your gecko doesn't over heat
at night, personally I just leave my heat mats on 24/7
because they do have the cooler spaces they can go to
if you want you can turn the heat mats off at night
whether it's cuz you wanna save electricity
i dunno why else, but if you do wanna do that
that can also drop to bout 80
maybe lower, they can like survive in 70 degrees (ss: want to thrive not survive)
they'll probably not enjoy it very much. I would not want to do that for very long
but just somewhere around
the 80-90 degree area at night
on the warm side of the enclosure, and in the middle of course, will just be a random gradient
oh it's 84 degrees here, it's
81 degrees here but your gecko can figure it out from there
as long as it has the options
humidity is quite easy to deal with because there are from pretty dry areas
usually the average house hold will be just fine for it
but essentially just keeping this nice and low will be ideal
dehumidifying an area can be a bit more difficult than actually adding humidity
but it can be done, often the heating just naturally decrease
like
the humidity, it dries it up
but if your humidity is too high the exact numbers varies a lot
personally I would not feel comfortable with a gecko over-
or a leopard gecko over like
50%, 60%
if it was over 60%, then I would be pretty concerned
and at that point they can have things like respiratory issues, other illnesses
their scales and skin may be effected because it's just so damp in there
it's like if you wore shoes that were wet all the time
your feet are not gonna be healthy after awhile
it's that kind of thing, just keep it lower. It doesn't have to be exact
and the humidity hide is the place your animal can go
when it does need that dose of humidity, that dose of moisture
and of course there will be a water bowl in there
uh if your gecko is soaking in the water bowl frequently, this probably means that your
temperatures are way too high in the enclosure and it's trying to cool off
and uh-and snakes and stuff, soaking also means mites
personally I haven't dealt with geckos having mites
so i can't vouch for this personally
but that is another possibility
the animal is trying to sooth the itchiness
of the mites or drown the mites or whatever
uh mites are not very common with leopard geckos but
it's still something good to know about, just don't like panic about it
it really doesn't need to be at the front of your mind
Next up lets go to lighting your enclosure
do you need light, what kind of light
lights, do-do you use them? Um well personally
I kinda just have lights all over the room so that is
generally pretty bright in here during the day
and one, it makes it nice for videos
makes it nice for me to look at and it makes it so that
animals actually know its day time
so leopard geckos are crepuscular animals meaning that they are active during
dawn and dusk hours of the day
lots of people mix this up with nocturnal. It's important that they know when
it is day time so that they're not living in the dark 24/7
why do some many people do that? I don't know. They keep their geckos like in their closet
where it's dark all the time they love it right?
I don't want to be in the sun all the time, it'll be so annoying
just freak out and have a mental breakdown
if it was never dark, well I guess Alaskans can deal with that in certain areas
But i'm, I don't want to and neither does your gecko
give it some day time, give it some night time
a direct lamp is not necessarily required if you have a heat mat under there (ss:don'tthinkthat'showitworks)
even just- there is a window right here
indirect window light is often enough
direct window light might heat your enclosure up, so I don't suggest that
I can- I usually keep animals right by the window
I just have to make sure the pattern of the sun does not shine right into the animal
cuz once it hits the glass, it's gonna heat up and turn into an oven
now what type of light should you use?
So many details, I know (ss:i no 2, I have 2 sub this)
Uh there is lot of different lights. There's just random incandescent , leds
Pretty much any of that works, uvb is a little bit different
I'll get to that in just a second, but red lights
that's a very common option, animals cant see them right?
No they can see them, they just might not always see the color
i- I don't know why they exist honestly
I mean they work for heat usually
but why does it have to be red? They can see it, it's just sometimes a little dimmer
Keeping a red light on at night is a big o nono in my book
uh just cuz thats
kinda the equivalent to it always being bright
That does for any animal btw
Now I guess you could use a red light during the day if you wanted to
Some people have told me that eventually red lights will damage your animal's eyesight
I personally haven't seen proof for this yet, I've only looked into it a little bit
So is a red light actually dangerous, it's hard to say (ss:there is proof, just ask him later)
it's another debate
I haven't had bad luck with it but I also don't often use red lights
UVB is the other thing
a lot of people will say I wouldnt keep any animal without uvb
Crepuscular animals, like I said before, are active during the dawn and dusk hours
now during these hours its
its been shown that uvb uh rays from the sun
are really, pretty nonexistant
they're very dull and there's really not much that you can benefit from the sun during these hours
this means leopard geckos naturally do not really get any uvb out in the wild
since they will be hidden away and sleeping during the day
so uvb is not something I would consider a requirement
the other thing is though, many people say that albino animals
are damaged by uvb bc their skin
are much more delicate and sensitive
and the uvb can do more harm than good
there is not a ton of research on this yet (ss:there is) until there is, I just say don't use
uvb on albino leopard geckos
it gets even spicier if you get into the world of
animals that are albino but still need uvb
but we won't get into that today
Now lets go ahead into food
what should your gecko eat? how often
and what should you supplement with
They are 100% insectivores, no veggies, no fruit
No... meat... just-just stick to insects
please heh. Either crickets, mealworms, dubias
superroach- superroaches heh. Superworms
other types of roaches, other types of worms, wax worms
hornworms, calciworms. There's a lot of options
the 4 most common that are fed to leopard geckos
are crickets, mealworms, superworms and dubia roaches
now leopard geckos are a pretty weird species
bc they often just decide they don't like a food anymore
for example, Goldie my leopard gecko
4 years ago when I got him,the- he was being fed super worms by the breeder
all a sudden he was like neh I don't like superworms
so I had to start trying a bunch of insects and he started eating
mealworms? maybe it was crickets and then eventually he was like
i don't- i don't really want crickets and then he switched to mealworms
and they often times they will eat lots of different stuff
we had some of the weirdest, pickiest geckos ever
there was one that would eat nothing but superworms
and we just started buying every insect on earth and finally superworms
was the thing that it took, so basically what i'm trying to say is that
although I'm about to suggest the insects that I prefer
your gecko might not agree and you're just gonna have to go with what it wants
I use to feed just meal worms
but dubias are often considered the healthiest
and even if they aren't the healthiest, they tend to be the softest
like you can just tell that they are softer and easier to digest
unfortunately I've had bearded dragons and leopard geckos
that can't just digest the hard shell of mealworms and superworms
and it'll come straight out in their poop undigested
and that's just doesn't seem okay with me
but dubias are consistently given the animals some nice
solid but soft poops
I know you wanted to know that. I mean it's important
for them to poop well and
dubias seem to be the best way to do that
a lot of you are gonna say but i- I live in florida
or I live in canada where uh dubias are illegal
so sorry about that, luckily there are plenty of other options
I've avoided crickets for 4 years now bc they're just the worse
they stink, they're loud, they escape
I kill them really easily
but they do work, I can't hate on them too much bc they keep animals alive
I still hate them tho but I mean
it's just a personal grudge
it's fine, theyre healthy, they keep your animal doing well
but dubias are my insect of choice and a variety is always good
to have. You can get lots of other types to just occasionally give them
the only thing about variety is that your animal might refuse them
but it doesn't hurt to try it. Next up is supplements
there are three different types of supplements know to be used
with leopard geckos. There is calcium with d3
calcium without d3
and a multivitamin supplement
I don't super understand the breakdown of each little components in these
so i'll just tell you what I do
and what's been working based on my research
and when I dust my insects, I dust it with
multivitamins and calcium with d3
the ratio I use is about a 1/4 multivitamin to a 1/3 multivitamin
with the rest being the calcium wiht d3
so I usually just do 1/3 multivitamin
2/3 calcium with d3
you can mix this all up
I just have a container with this mixture already done
or you can just do it every third feeding
you give them multivitamin instead of calcium
leopard geckos are pretty good at knowing when they need more or less calcium
so what people often do
is put a little bowl of calcium in the enclosure
this bowl is calcium without d3
why, I will try to explain it but
its better if you refer to other people for that because i'll just be copying what other people will say
but it works just fine
they're happy and comfortable doing that
uh overdosing with calcium is something we rarely often see
about half the animals, or well half the leopard geckos we've gotten in here
will usually have calcium over doses
you can tell bc there will be these big squishy packets under their armpits
like literally you can squish them and it's just big o'
lumpy bubble. This means that you're feeding your animal too much calcium
all you have to do is bring it back
maybe take the calcium out, put less in their food
and over a couple of weeks to a couple months, usually it just
a few weeks works for us of no calcium at all
and it'll be back to normal then just feed them with less calcium than before
and that should be fine
uh if they have big squishy packets for just a little bit
that should be fine but in the long run just
it's good to avoid it so that their calcium
overdose does not cause something more severe in the gecko
how often you should feed is very hard to say
because every gecko is different
The tail of your gecko is the best gauge as to how fat or
thin they are. You want a nice
chunky meaty tail (ss:O.O)
but you don't want other parts
of their body to look to flabby themselves
and a thinner tail, if its- if it's looking like a crested gecko's tail
you're having some problems. Its really depressing seeing those
it needs to be nice and fat
uh again without the rest of their body showing it
so if they have flabs around here
up here or around their neck, then maybe you're feeding them too much
their tail is where they keep their fat reserves
so... like... if they end up starving
they can live a long time off what's in their tail
but personalty I essentially free feed my
my- Goldie, my leopard gecko, dubias
They're pretty much always in his bowl and he doesn't like eat himself to death
he's not a fish or anything. However sometimes you might have to actually regulate it
whether it's a couple dubias every couple days
a lot of dubias
twice a week or whatever. There is lots of ways to do it
and it's hard to tell you what you should actually do
especially since its based on the insect
but when I
get a new gecko and I'm not sure how much to feed it
I kinda just watch it and see how much it eats every day and take out what it doesn't eat
just so that I can keep track and if it's getting too fat
I reduce it, if it's not gaining enough
I might just keep the food in there or change to a slightly fattier insect
Leopard geckos are often known to be pretty docile
Pretty good at handling. Some are more often scared
Especially if they haven't been handled in the past
and others are just perfectly fine with it from the start
we had few little geckos that have come in from like hoard conditions
and immediately they just crawl out and crawl all over you and it's so cute
don't be discourage if your gecko does not do this
if you work with it
uh frequently, uh maybe a few minutes every day
or a few times a week for like 10
or 15 minutes, just getting it use to handling will help
if the gecko starts getting scared, don't just immediately put it back
bc if it knows it can just defend itself and get away
then it'll just keep doing it, just keep handling it
just show it that it's okay
leopard gecko do bite, it's not common
it surprisingly hurts more than you might think
but in the end it's really more like you're basically not ever gonna draw blood
it's not gonna break your bone or anything
it's just gonna be a nice pinch on the finger or where ever they bite you
but uh don't let the fear or discouragement of a bite
stop you from handling it, just keep working with it
a little bit at a time
right when you get your gecko it's best to give it a few days
to actually adjust to the new home
it might be good to make sure it starts eating before you do it
because there can be a lot of stress in a new place
but in the end, they're often a great animal that you can play around with and handle
and get cute pictures of with
don't forget that they can drop their tails, like i said, this is their fat reserves
its very important. We've had geckos with dropped tails
and its- it does grow back surprisingly quickly in a number of weeks
but it can be a bit more risky
you have to be really on top of things (ss:talk any slower?)
um bc they might not have as much nutrition at that time
don't worry about it, I've never had a gecko drop it's tail when I've been caring for it
and I have over the years accidentally pulled at their tails or whatever
avoid that as much as you can
but most of the time you should be all good
worse case scenario they do drop their tail
and it'll need a little more attention here or there
but don't let that stop you from getting that gecko
so there we go (ss:hallelujah) i'm pretty sure I covered everything
I'm gonna be editing this and realize like
I forgot that thing I wanted to say but uh that's why you can go and check out the
leopard gecko care guide at goherping.com/leopardgeckos
cuz I update that super frequently
again all the supplies I use are linked below
I coown a company called emerald scales that sells animals
so you can check that out
its still generally small so we might not have leopard geckos at the time
but you can follow our emerald scales on instagram
and keep up to see what's new. Again merchandise
we got uh frogs and snakes right now
maybe more to come, you can check that out at goherping.com/shop
hopefully this helps you
on the channel I do lots of care guides and other reptile stuff
if you're still watching (ss:unfortunately) then cool, you're like a dedicated
researcher and I appreciate that
again don't forget to google some other things
to compare sources and other stuff
to make sure I didnt mess anything up
hopefully that helps, feel free to ask questions
join the discord or facebook (ss:discord>fb) if you want more help
I'm plugging a lot of stuff right now
but I think that's everything
So I'm Alex (ss:and i'm dead)
And thanks for watching
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