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Nespresso Coffee Capsules Reborn as Chair - Vertuo - Duration: 0:16.
NESPRESSO CAPSULES REBORN AS A CHAIR
JUST IMAGINE WHAT YOUR COFFEE COULD TURN INTO
THIS IS NESPRESSO THIS IS RECYCLABLE
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Nespresso Coffee Capsules Reborn as Bike - Vertuo - Duration: 0:16.
NESPRESSO CAPSULES REBORN AS A BIKE
JUST IMAGINE WHAT YOUR COFFEE COULD TURN INTO
THIS IS NESPRESSO THIS IS RECYCLABLE
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RESTORATION of a 1930´s Coffee Grinder – Part 1 of 2 - Duration: 21:53.
Hi, I'm Thomas, welcome to Pilot´s Workshop.
When a friend of mine recently bought an old farmhouse, he found an ancient coffee grinder rotting away in a corner of the attic.
Since he wanted to have a coffee grinder anyways, he decided to keep it, cleaned it from the worse dirt and took it home.
When I first saw it, I begged him to let me restore it for him and he eventually said yes.
This project took me several months of doing bits and pieces here and there
with a lot of research and decisions that had to be made at every turn and that took some thinking in between.
I wanted to keep the restoration the least invasive that I could,
trying to replace only what I absolutely had to and staying true to its original form.
At the same time I wanted to make it work as if it was new again.
Those two ideas don't really work well together.
Especially in a project that held this many surprises being more decayed than visible at first glance.
But I'll try to explain every step I took on the way.
So let's begin by taking it apart.
After taking it apart the first thing I did was to resharpen the grinding mechanism.
Since I wanted to make it grind coffee again, I first wanted to see if I could bring back functionality in those crucial parts.
Both these parts are hardened and actually held up very well with only small signs of wear.
The inner grinding cone could be resharpened straight forward with a thin cutting blade.
For the outer cone, I bought some triangular grinding stones,
the smallest ones I could find in coarse, medium and fine
and carefully worked on those teeth as well.
A first test showed promising results.
So I continued working my way around.
But since I wouldn't be able to test my results until the entire machine was finished
I put the resharpened grinding cones away and began working on the wooden body of the grinder.
I carefully took off the badge to not damage it and also safe and later reuse the tiny nails holding it.
The bottom board was split and bent.
I first cleaned it a bit with a soft brass wire brush to see what exactly was going on.
What's already obvious here is the small piece of broken edge, but more on that later.
I noticed that there are two small nails hidden in the crack of the board which made me believe that the board
first started bending and maybe cracking,
probably due to moisture getting in from below.
The previous owner then might have put in the small nails to counter that effect, but who knows.
Anyways, the next step was to carefully remove what was left of the bottom.
Like I stated in the beginning I was determined to save as much as possible from the grinder.
So I cleaned the crack surfaces and saw that they would fit together quite nicely
and would leave an interesting glue line when joined together like this.
Now, let's take a look at the spot where a small portion of the edge is broken off.
I decided to patch it in the same glue up.
The original wood is beech. So I made a fitting piece from the same type of wood.
And since I would mix up the glue anyways
I also used the chance to repair a cracked corner in the top board of the grinder.
Epoxy is perfect for this kind of situation.
Because it goes into the wood fibers
Creating a strong bond while also having great physical strength on its own when filling large gaps.
The glue up went straight forward.
To repair the cracked corner
I simply squeezed it back together in the vise and left it there for a day to let the glue fully set and harden.
One thing that is already visible at this point are the many holes from wood worms.
I already tried to fill some of them with epoxy but the real surprise there is still to come.
And since I wouldn't reuse the nail holes in the bottom I also filled those with glue.
After the epoxy had enough time to set the most time-consuming work of this project began:
Sanding until I reached solid wood and the contact surfaces are flat.
All
kinds
of
sanding.
Aand there came the surprise that I spoke about.
The good news were that there were no more traces of a wood worm living in the coffee grinder.
The bad news were that the entire bottom board mainly consisted of wormholes.
The main box had a similar problem but much less and mainly in the bottom area.
I smoothed over the inside area just a little bit to take off some of the roughness.
After the contact areas were all flat and didn't show any more gaps I continued sanding the rest of the surfaces.
My main goal was to once again create sharp lines defining the details and edges of the box.
For this edge I used a small wood turning gouge that just had the perfect radius.
Then it was time to finish the small a.k.a. dutchman.
After the main box was finally done the contrast to the small drawer shows the difference of before and after.
So I took care of the drawer.
A closer inspection revealed that it also had some problems:
The finger joints started opening up,
One corner of the bottom was already "fixed" with two nails
and the rest was really not holding on anymore.
So I had to do something
Because of the time the coffee grinder was made in I was quite certain that it was
assembled with classic bone or skin glue which meant that I could easily loosen them with some mild heat.
And that's exactly how it was.
Because classic natural glues can be worked on in that fashion
restorers love them and no force has to be applied in a repair like this.
Unlike nails.Nails are always a pain to remove.
After cleaning out all glue residue I smoothed up all parts of the drawer.
I noticed that the bottom plate was bent in multiple ways.
Probably also as a result of some moisture.
Since this would make the glue up very difficult
I flattened it by first steaming it and then immediately pressing it in my vise.
I left it in there for a couple of days to dry and relax in its new shape.
After that it was flat again and I glued the drawer back together.
And because I wanted to be true to the original methods. I wanted to use natural glue as well.
In my research I stumbled across a fish glue from Canada that can be applied without heating up just like regular yellow or white glue.
So I bought and used that and the next time the coffee grinder needs a makeover. It can be worked on in the same way
By simply applying some heat.
And all glue residue was simply sanded off later.
Much better.
This is where we´re going to leave the box for now to work on the bean chamber.
This piece is made out of three parts from incredibly thin sheet metal.
For protection and aesthetics it received a nickel plating, which gave it a chrome-like look.
But the nickel layer of this grinder is heavily damaged and has many holes where corrosion worked its way into the base metal.
Cleaning off the nickel layer unveiled two more surprises:
Firstly the pot is not made out of one type of metal,
but the bottom and top from steel and the main body from brass.
And secondly that brass body being severely cracked all around.
Those cracks had already been visible through the nickel plating
But I thought they were only that; cracks in the plating.
Because I had to assume that this kind of damage would only spread when the grinder gets used in the future
I had to do something.
So I prepared a strip of 0.3 millimeter brass that by the way was significantly thicker than the base metal.
And my idea was to solder it in place from the inside of the chamber.
When I did a test fit I precision-marked where I needed to shorten it and cut it a precise length.
I made the strip slim enough so that it would sit in the only area that was relatively flat.
I then took off the rest of the outside nickel plating, prepared both parts with flux,
Clamped down the ends of the brass strip and started soldering.
After that the pot looked a bit worse than before but was structurally sound again.
Excess solder was cleaned off and sharp edges taken off on the outside.
With this crucial step out of the way
I took on the more time-consuming work of cleaning the rest of the metal parts of this coffee grinder.
So it first took off the crank handle.
Its axle was riveted to the crank. So I cut off the mushroomed part and took it out.
The handle was still in surprisingly good shape, at least compared to the rest of the grinder...
This is the mechanism that allows adjusting of the fineness of the grind.
The screw pushes a small plate against the bottom of the inner rotating grinder
into the fixed outer grinder. The tip of the thread was a bit mushroomed over.
So to not damage anything I first fixed that before taking it out.
The small spring is there to create some tension to prevent the mechanism from unscrewing itself.
The tiny knob of the drawer was stuck to its screw.
Since it was too long and sticking out to the inside of the drawer anyways, I didn't need to be careful and hammered it loose.
The tiny knob was also in good shape but covered in a thick layer of something.
Then began the endless grinding to clean all parts from decades of rust and coffee stains.
Because I would fix the handle with a screw instead of a rivet I then cut the smallest possible thread into the existing hole.
Which was a standard six millimeter thread. (M6)
An interesting and concerning detail is that the grinder only had one bearing point
that of course was completely worn off. And it was steel and steel.
I wanted to improve this the best way I could without changing too much of any of the existing elements.
So I opened up the hole of the steel bushing from around 9 to 10 millimeters,
so that it could receive a new and replaceable brass bushing, that I made on the lathe.
I left the bushing quite a bit too long to give it more length to run on, reducing forces and in return making it last longer.
Okay, the video is already getting way too long
But I still want to show you one of my favorite little details.
When I cleaned up the cap nut that covers the top of the main shaft
I discovered a knurling pattern under the thick layer of rust and dirt.
This was a very happy surprise since I first thought that it was a rather plain nut.
However, the pattern had gotten quite weak from the probably years of corroding in that attic.
I made the decision to preserve it by deepening it a tiny bit.
This was a very easy and enjoyable task to do with a small hand file
and I'm quite happy with how it turned out.
And that's it for this video. The second and final part of this restoration will contain more sanding
a bit of chemistry
and maybe even some actual coffee grinding.
So make sure to also stop by for the next one.
This is Pilot´s Workshop. Thank you for watching :)
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Coffee with the Candidates: Mandela Barnes - Duration: 1:46.
For more infomation >> Coffee with the Candidates: Mandela Barnes - Duration: 1:46. -------------------------------------------
Nespresso Coffee Capsules Reborn as Fertilizer - Duration: 0:16.
NESPRESSO COFFEE REBORN AS FERTILISER
JUST IMAGINE WHAT YOUR COFFEE COULD TURN INTO
THIS IS NESPRESSO THIS IS RECYCLABLE
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Nespresso Coffee Capsules Reborn as Fertilizer - Vertuo - Duration: 0:16.
NESPRESSO COFFEE REBORN AS FERTILISER
JUST IMAGINE WHAT YOUR COFFEE COULD TURN INTO
THIS IS NESPRESSO THIS IS RECYCLABLE
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