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Toyota Camry - Replace Rear Brake Pads - Duration: 11:23.
hey folks I'm Dennis, today I'm going to show you how to change the rear brakes
on a 2007 to 2011 Toyota Camry. The car I'm working on today as a 2009, but it's
very similar to all of those year models within that range. first thing you need
to do is to jack the car up, put jack stands under it so it doesn't fall and take the
rear tire off so once you've got that done, let's get started
there are various brands of brake pads that you can buy out there
I prefer Bendix brand just because they've been around for a long time and
they're reputable and I know what kind of product I'm going to get. ok what
you're gonna need for this job is you're gonna need a 14 millimeter wrench you
may need a 17 millimeter wrench, usually not, but it's good to have one just in
case I'll explain that in a minute. you're gonna need a pair of channel
locks or a small C clamp a six-inch C clamp, or a four inch will work and that's
really it and the way these work is you got your rotor here I'm not going to get
into rotors today because my rotors are fine they don't need any work that might
be a future video but as long as you don't have any grooving, as long as this
is a smooth surface, nine times out of ten you're gonna be alright. now if
you've had multiple brake jobs and these have been turned more than a couple of
times they're probably going to be too thin and they might need to be replaced
but but as long as you've got a nice smooth surface and you haven't had, you
know, multiple brake jobs it should be fine.
you've got caliper retainer bolts here and here and then you've got a slide pins
here and here. these bolts hold on the caliper which is this to the
caliper bracket which is this the bolts thread into the slide pins these slide
pins move in and out of the caliper bracket so sometimes when you loosen
these or tighten them this slide pin will also turn that's
where you may need a 17 millimeter wrench if not you just need a 14mm here
and usually you can get by with with not having to have one but we'll see. so
you're gonna loosen that loosen that bolt up that retainer bolt be careful
here of your bleeder valve you don't want to bend it or break it off then you
have a mess. get on the bottom one and
same thing the the back calipers you have to take both bolts out. on the front,
you can actually just rotate them up, they don't give you enough hose on the
backs to be able to rotate the caliper so you may as well take both
bolts out and that's the retainer bolts just just kind of a basic bolt nothing
fancy
slide the caliper off and then just.... you can..... some people will take a piece of
wire/ twine and put it here and tie it up to the coil spring or something like
that if you just.... don't put your hose in a kink..... but if you..... they're small and
light if you can generally just balance them right up here on top of the rotor
no sweat you know..... notice I don't have the hose in
a bind I've just looped it back around and set it down. alright so you've got
your brake pads here and here the inner and the outer so it just flips out.
there's a shim on the back which is an anti squeal shim and then you got a
little squealer clip right there. it's a wear indicator to let you know....
once the pads get worn down to a certain point that clip rubs on the
rotor makes a horrible sound let you know that your brakes are worn out.
sometimes the new brakes will come with squealer clips on them and sometimes
they won't. this particular one doesn't. now the the new pads the the inboard and
the outboard are the same, so it doesn't matter which side you put it on, you just
gotta make sure you get it in there the right way. some pads will also come with
new abutment clips these clips in here... they basically just snap in. the set that
I bought does not.... kind of wish they had it..... but I think I bought the wrong set.
you can either order them with or without so if you get with, these clips
just basically snap onto the caliper bracket. if you don't get new ones just
make sure that they're that they're not rusted up and they're not bound up make
sure they're fairly clean don't put any lubricant on here though because it'll
pull it onto your rotor. so you want your squealer clip on the on the back brakes
to be on the bottom because then the forward motion of the rotor, since we
drive forward more than backward, will will not tend to pull the clip off so
you take the take the clip off the old one just you got to kind of work it off
but it'll it'll snap right off then you take the new pad it's going to go on the
rotor that way so the clip's going to go on the bottom because the wheels going,
this is the right side, so the wheels going that way and then you can see how
that clip is shaped this little part here goes on the on the pad and then the
end here goes toward the rotor so it's gonna go on just like that and you just
snap that on there that's a little loose I'm gonna take a pair of pliers and then
we'll tighten that up a touch.
there we go so now it's on there like that and then all you do is slide that
in make sure that you get inside this abutment clip top and bottom it's
easier to get the inner part first and then slip in the outer I think. the same
thing with the the inner... just take the inboard, just take it,
pop that Squealer clip off, if it won't come off you can take a pair of pliers if
it's real tight but normally pop them right off the same thing that's gonna go
on the bottom like so that's also a little loose so we'll tighten it up one
of the reasons to buy this the pads with the hardware kit is you get all this new.
the abutment clips and the little Squealer clips but I just messed
up. make sure that it's they're in there and they can go right up against the
rotor as long as they're right up against the rotor you're fine. make
sure they're inside of these clips check your guide pins to make sure that
they're lubricated, that they're sliding... your slide pins, as long as they'll move,
they're okay if they're not if they're bound up if you've got like an older car
or that's been a lot of salt water or something like that where these are
bound up then you you want to get the..... brakes will come with some grease and
you want to pull that boot back and grease the slide pins so that they're
free to move. now when your brake pads wear out the they get thinner
and so this this caliper piston comes out further this way because it's
pinching onto the rotor and the pads so in order to get this back on the new
pads, because they're thicker, you've got to compress this a little bit .....completely
compressed would be where this metal ring is flush with this rubber boot that
goes around here. the safest way to do is take one of your
old pads, stick it in there, you can either use a c-clamp, they make a
tool that goes in here and spans across these two ears with a with a big thumb
screw on it, or you can just take a pair of channel locks but basically what
you're going to do is is hook on to the back end of this caliper and you're not
trying to kill it you just want to compress this you want to kind of take
it easy so that you don't put too much back pressure on the seals in the master
cylinder and that kind of thing and then you're just going to kind of gently
squeeze that. you can see that going back in so now it's flush. take
the caliper and slide it back into the bracket being careful not to knock the
shoes off you may have to compress these slide pins to get the caliper on there.
do that, take two bolts make sure that's lined up well and then get them started
top and bottom. the torque spec on these caliper retaining bolts is 25
foot-pounds. I'll be honest, I don't hardly ever torque them, I snug them up
and call it good.... but if you are real particular about torque specs then you
can you can torque it
and you see how that moves that's because I've compressed the piston. your
good to go now all you've got to do is put the
wheel back on.
part of the process of new brakes is, most of them come pre-scorched now so it's
not a real big issue, but just to burn them in/bed them, take your car out get
it up to about 40mph, do a fairly hard brake to stop. do that about four or five
times and then you should be good to go. try your best to take it easy for about
the first hundred miles on the brakes and after that you don't have to worry
about it, they're fine. like I say most of these pads anymore are pre-scorched so you
really don't have to worry too much about that but that's just a safer thing to do to
make sure that they're bedded properly. all right so that's it, now you know how
to do the rear brakes on a 2007 to 2011 Toyota Camry. thanks for watching my
video, I appreciate you checking it out. please check out the other Camry videos
on my channel and I hope you subscribe and hope see you back soon!
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