One Sunday, a friend and I decided to go on a short hike to the crater of Taal Volcano.
The trip to the Southern art of Manila
to Talisay, Batangas was almost 2 hours
and yes, Taal Volcano is located in Talisay , Batangas
but a good view of it is seen from the cold city of Tagaytay
since the crater in enclosed in a lake
a boat ride is necessary which cost about P2000 for roundtrip
Good morning!
so we've just been on a 20 minute boat ride
from the other side of Talisay
and now we are here at Pulo, Talisay
So right now, we just need to register
before we begin with our trek
Hello again guys!
So we've already started our trek
I am here with my guide, Adrian
So, as per advise
the trek will take us to about 45 minutes to an hour
and then
right now, the trail is still all flat
but some parts (a few) will be steep going up
I hope I can make it
Because I'm not really a hiker
I'm just trying to be a hiker now
I'll just see you there
Yes, there's a store
and guess what I saw
there's beer
are they sweet?
we stopped here for a while at a cottage
because I can barely catch my breath
so five minute rest
then go back to walking there again
We are getting near the top
this is the final leg of our trek
it's a bit steep
I hope I can still make it
after an hour trek and unlimited sunburn
we are finally here
For more infomation >> A Guide to Hiking Taal Volcano (Cinematic Vlog) - Duration: 5:52.
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18 Relationship Mistakes to Avoid Before it's too late full guide | animated video - Duration: 10:09.
18 Relationship Mistakes to Avoid
No.1, Not taking time for yourself and being too co-dependent.
If you spend every waking moment with your significant other, you will ultimately lose
who you are as an individual.
Things like going to the store on your own will be hard and you will find yourself consulting
that person for every small decision you make.
Take some time to do what you love.
Have your own hobbies, interests and friends.
You will both benefit from this and have a richer life as a result
No.2, Saying "nothing is wrong".
Some issues or insults can seem so obvious that you can't imagine your partner not
realizing they did something wrong.
So rather than discussing the problem, you stay silent and sulk about how they don't
seem to care that you are upset.
When asked, "What's wrong?" it's so much easier and less painful to say "nothing."
It's a momentary band-aid, but the problem remains.
You either stay angry and resentful, or you move on and sweep the unresolved issue under
the rug, which only gives it the opportunity to arise days, weeks, or months later with
even greater ugliness.
No.3, Losing the romance in the relationship.
Losing the romance in the relationship is one of the key reasons why relationships fail.
It is easy to become complacent and slack on making an effort for romance.
The truth is, relationships are work.
Not that you won't have any fun along the way, but you need to remember it takes a focused
effort to be romantic with your partner.
No.4, Comparing your partner to an ex.
The human mind naturally looks for patterns.
When we experience a situation that's even remotely similar to something from our past,
we draw conclusions based on that past experience.
This is how we improve our lives and learn, after all.
But when it comes to relationships, this logic can be detrimental.
For example, let's say your ex took a long time to return your calls when he or she was
losing interest in the relationship.
Lately, your current partner hasn't returned your calls quickly.
Conclusion: Your current partner is no longer interested in you.
Wrong!
Fight your brain's addiction to patterns and remember that every single person and
situation is unique.
This is not to say you shouldn't learn from your past or set standards for yourself.
Rather, keep an open mind and afford each person a clean slate.
One final note: Never, ever say to your significant other, "My ex did that all the time."
Comparing someone you care about to someone you don't is incredibly hurtful.
No.5, Forgetting to appreciate your partner.
Lastly, never forget to tell your significant other, "thank you", or "I love you."
At the beginning of the relationship, you surely noticed all of the kind things that
he or she was doing for you, and praised him or her accordingly.
You said you loved each other all of the time.
Sometimes we forget how awesome the other person is, until we think about it.
Tell your significant other right now how you feel about them!
No.6, Holding back.
Give generously to your partner without expecting your kindness to be returned.
Don't be afraid of loving too much.
Women, especially, often fear that showing too much interest makes them seem needy or
clingy.
If you want to be cautious at the start of a relationship, that's completely understandable.
But once you're both in it for the long haul, give as much as you can.
If your significant other shows affection less openly and often, resist the urge to
match their ways.
Instead, communicate with your partner about how you need to receive love.
Expressing love and showing kindness, will never serve you wrong.
No.7, Keeping secrets from your loved one.
This is something that goes along with keeping communication open—do not keep secrets.
Not that you have to tell the other person every minute detail about your life, but you
should not intentionally keep something major from them.
You know it is a secret that needs to be shared, when you feel even slightly guilty for not
telling them.
It will come out eventually, and sooner is always better than later.
No.8, Not talking about money.
Money is always a tricky subject.
You might have come from different backgrounds.
If one person grew up wanting for nothing and the other has always had to pinch pennies,
there may be some disagreements over how money is spent.
If you are in a serious relationship, even if you have separate money, be sure to discuss
these things as money issues are guaranteed to come up eventually.
No.9, Threatening to break up This is a dangerous mistake that places a
dark cloud over relationships long after a heated argument has passed.
The most fundamental part of a mature relationship is remaining committed in the lowest of times.
By threatening to break up, even if you're saying it out of frustration and don't really
mean it, you're abandoning your partner in a cruel and cowardly way.
You're basically saying, "I'll love you until" or "I'll love you only if."
Threatening to break up is a selfish power play that benefits neither person.
Avoid playing that card at all costs.
When emotions have cooled, you'll be so glad you did.
No.10, Not taking differences in core values seriously.
Even though you like the same music, and enjoy spending time with one another, you will still
have a hard time getting past major differences.
Core values include things like religion, morality, and the importance of things like
family, friends, careers and money.
Take some time to discuss these things, before you move your relationship forward, or you
might be in for disappointment later.
No.11, Fighting about everything.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, do not make everything an argument.
Think about all of the problems you have with your partner, and really consider whether
these are deal breakers, or if you can build a bridge and get over them.
No.12, Constantly questioning your relationship.
Do you sit around wondering whether you, and your partner will still be together next week,
next month, or next year?
Do you take signs of preoccupation expressed by your partner, as evidence of his or her
disinterest in you?
Questioning your relationship means that you doubt it will last, and therefore may be less
likely to feel comfortable about commitments you make about the future.
If you're always looking for a "Plan B," your partner may sense this, and the relationship's
future demise could then become a likely prospect.
No.13, Being too clingy.
It's understandable to want to spend a lot of time together at the beginning of a relationship,
but if you want things to last, and continue along in a healthy manner, give your partner
their space.
Calling and texting multiple times a day, and trying to make daily plans can seem like
overkill.
Remember that you have a life of your own, and it's much healthier to give your partner
their space.
No.14, Getting too serious, too fast.
Even if he or she seems like "the one", and you can picture your future children,
pets and house where you'll throw backyard barbeques, take a second to step back and
chill out.
Getting too serious, too soon can put a lot of unnecessary pressure on a relationship,
and has the potential to scare off your partner.
No.15, Trying to control.
Many of us either have control issues, or things that the other person does that drive
us crazy.
Both of these scenarios can lead to us wanting to control, or comment on every move the other
person makes.
Think about it though, would you like someone telling you what to do every waking minute?
You are not this person's parent.
If he or she is a grown adult, treat them like one.
No.16, Getting jealous for no reason.
Jealousy can put an immediate damper on relationship, especially if it's in no way warranted.
If you find yourself getting jealous every time he or she checks her or his phone, or
feeling the need to question where she or he is, and who she's or he's with minus
any proof of wrongdoing, you could end up pushing your partner away.
No.17, Expecting perfection.
We are all human.
We all make mistakes.
Do not hold your significant other to some unrealistically high expectation.
This is especially hard for those of us who hold unrealistically high expectations for
ourselves, but that's another topic altogether.
No.18, Trying to change the other.
Seeing your partner as an improvement project is a recipe for disaster!
No one likes to think they need to be fine-tuned or changed.
Needless to say, it gives the impression that they are not quite good enough.
If that's the case, why are you with that person?
the Solution is to Remind yourself that no one is perfect, including you.
Appreciate your partner's good qualities, and if somehow you are hurt, or offended by
certain words or behaviors, communicate it kindly and positively.
Seek to inform rather than criticize
-------------------------------------------
Tiger 1 Review with Guide - World of Tanks Blitz - Duration: 5:54.
Welcome to a new video.
Today this is my first Guide with a review.
Of course at first the review. From the great Tiger 1.
It has normally 1450 HP.
I have 75 Hp more because i have equipment.
It has 100mm at the front, 82mm at the sides and 82mm at the rear.
Same stats at the turret.
It is 57 tons. 819 PS.
The max. speed is 44 km/h.
Traverse speed is 41.72 deg/sec.
24.30 deg/sec with the turret.
Between avg 165-275 dmg.
10.18 rate of fire. That is pretty good for a Tier VII Heavy.
My reload is 5.9sec with the 8,8cm. The Tier VIII Gun.
Aiming time is 4.4
With AP it has 203mm pen.
APCR/Gold 237mm pen.
HE 44mm pen.
220 avg dmg.
From my experience it made between 200-210 avg dmg.
With Gold it makes a bit less dmg.
With HE it makes of course more dmg. (Just on bad armored tanks)
This is a really short review from the Tiger 1.
I'll show you now how to play with it.
This was a battle on Naval Frontier.
This was a Mastery.
I want to show you how i played it here.
I drove trough the mid.
What i expected from our lights/meds that they drive on the light line.
Below C when you look at the minimap.
My plan was to drive to C and to cap it.
Before the enemies come.
When they will come up there we're gonna defend it.
Me and my mates in the C cap will make a little mistake.
Look on the C cap points.
One guy drives back to early. I thought it's done that's why i back up too.
Now we got C.
I stayed there to put a shot into the T69.
Just show your turret.
Our bulldog stands in the way.
I have to go down to support our T-44.
That's why i rammed him out of the way.
Now i'm driving to him.
Go with the Tiger 1 always at the front. Not at the second or the third.
*not important*
Because i know i'm reloading faster than him i'm staying there.
Fire and immediately drive back. So he got no chance to shoot you.
Always check the minimap. (You should do that in every tank btw).
Someone from the enemy team got B and A.
Look at what i'm doing. I'm sidescraping. So he can't pen me.
He shows his fron to me so i can pen him. He doesn't know i have enough pen to shoot trough.
And again he shows his front to me.
Sidescraped everywhere.
There he managed to pen me. Maybe he loaded gold or he shot trough my tracks.
Now i'm pushing because i know he won't come out again with low HP.
After that i'll drive to B and cap it.
He managed to shoot me again.
No, i don't think he loaded gold because he didn't made much dmg in this shot.
There i hoped that the T-43 will come to me.
Now i'm driving to B.
Look at how i play.
If you want to see other tactics with the Tiger 1 check other Tiger 1 videos out. Like mastery's etc.
Or you can watch my older videos about the Tiger 1.
My fav tank^^
Because i know he will come from there, i'm backing up to get more time to cap B.
There he is.
Activating adrenaline because this tank is really dangerous.
I think he got the stock gun. (Stock gun has 1.3sec between the 3 shots).
I forgot what the gun was called.
Playing really offensive.
It's not hard to play it like that. It just takes time, experience and training.
This was a pretty good battle to show that as an example.
I made...
Almost 3K dmg and 2 kills.
Play it like that.
If you have specific questions about the Tiger 1 go ahead.
Like what should i do when my team has more heavies and i'm in my Tiger 1.
Just write it in the comments.
See you next time! "Haut rein" ;)
-------------------------------------------
GPIO Binding + OpenHAB 2 Complete Guide 2017 - Duration: 7:35.
Hey guys Matt here from MKSmartHouse.com and in this video I am going to show you how to
use the OpenHAB 2 GPIO Binding.
[Intro]
The GPIO Binding allows us to interact with the onboard gpio pins of the raspberry pi.
When I say interact I mean be able to turn the GPIO pins on and off as well as read the
status of the input on a GPIO pin.
First up let's go over the parts I am going to use to demonstrate the GPIO binding.
I am going to use a white LED, 5 volt 4 Channel relay board, Momentary button and a door sensor.
For tools we are just going to need female dupont jumper cables.
The links to all the materials, tools and parts are over on my website, the link is
in the description.
To make this guide easier I am going to be using my testing raspberry pi running a fresh
installation of openhabian.
I have a complete guide on my channel showing how to install and setup openhabian.
The raspberry pi is sitting in a clear plastic enclosure with a built in fan which is cooling
the heat sinks I have installed.
I have a kit for the raspberry pi on my shop over at mksmarthouse.com/shop.
Now take the components and connect them to the raspberry pi using the female dupont jumper
cables and according to this picture.
If you have any questions on the wiring ask it down in the comments below and I will try
to answer it.
Here is a clip of my wiring.
Next we have to setup the GPIO binding.
I will not be doing two separate videos for mac and PC because the only difference is
the software used to SSH, on mac you use terminal and on windows you use PUTTY.
To install the binding go to your openhab web user interface and click on paper ui.
Then go to add-ons.
After that click on bindings and in the search type in GPIO and install the one that says
GPIO binding.
If you want to configure some other settings for the GPIO binding you can go to the configuration
tab and then the bindings sub tab.
After that you can click the configure button in the GPIO binding.
Personally I didn't touch any of the settings.
The binding is installed, now let's use it.
SSH into the raspberry pi using the program based on your operating system.I recomend
having my website open so you can just copy and paste commands.
For this guide I am going to assume that you have an item's file,and a sitemap file.
If you do not then check out my video where I cover the configuration files.
Anyway the first thing we are going to do is create the items in the items file.
Type in sudo nano /etc/openhab2/items/home.items and press enter.
You may need to type in the sudo password.
Now type in:
Switch LED "LED" { gpio="pin:21" }
//Relays Switch channel1 "Channel 1" { gpio="pin:26
activelow:yes initialValue:high" } Switch channel2 "Channel 2" { gpio="pin:19
activelow:yes initialValue:low" } Switch channel3 "Channel 3" { gpio="pin:13
activelow:yes"} Switch channel4 "Channel 4" { gpio="pin:6
activelow:no"}
Contact DoorSensor "Door Sensor [%s]" { gpio="pin:16 debounce:10 activelow:yes" }
Contact Button "Button [%s]" { gpio="pin:24 activelow:yes" }
What we did is create the items that control as well as read the status of the various
things we connected.
Let me explain what each item does and what each part means.
The first item is the one that controls the LED.
The first part is the item type and since this will turn the LED ON and OFF we will
use the switch type.
The next part is the item name and I just called it LED.
After that is the label text and this is what shows up in the user interface, again I just
wrote LED.
The next part after that is the binding config.
I assigned this item to GPIO 21 because that is where I plugged in on the raspberry pi.
The next set of items are for the relay board and since it is a 4 channel board I created
4 items.
Each item is almost the same except for the binding config.
I am going to show you a couple different ways you can configure this binding, but for
this relay board the item config you should be using for every channel is the one on channel
1.
The first part of the binding config is the pin to connect to and for this one is pin
26, the next part is activelow which is set to yes.
Active low means that when the switch is off there will be no voltage applied to the gpio
pin and when the switch is on there will be voltage applied.
After that is initialValue and what this does is tell openhab what to set the initial value
of the item during initialization.
This one is set to high because I want the switch to be off during initialization.
The next item is channel 2 and for this one I set activelow to yes and initialValue to
low.
So, this one will be like channel 1 except during initialization the switch will be on
during initialization.
The binding config for channel 3 and 4 are a littile bit different because they do not
have the initialValue so instead they will use the default value of high.
Also these two items have different values in activelow.
You will be able to see how the different items work later when I show you a demo of
everything working.
Next up is the gpio pins that act as inputs.
First is the door sensor and since the door sensor has two states open and closed we will
use contact for the item type.
For the label text I just wrote Door Sensor and format of the input as %s.
In the binding config I mapped it to GPIO pin 16, and set debounce to 10.
Debounce means the time it waits before reading the input on a pin in milliseconds.
After that is again activelow and this is set to yes because the way the button works
is it applies voltage which trip the pin high.
The button item is basically the same except it does not have a debounce parameter in the
binding config.
That is it for the items file, now press control x, then y and enter to save.
Now we are going to put the items into the sitemap file so type in sudo nano /etc/openhab2/sitemaps/home.sitemap
and press enter.
Then paste the following into a bracket:
Switch item=LED
Switch item=channel1 Switch item=channel2
Switch item=channel3 Switch item=channel4
Text item=Button Text item=DoorSensor
And press enter.
All we did is import the items into the sitemap.
To save press control x then y and enter to save.
Let's test everything out.
Go to your web user interface and then basic ui, I am going to do it on a tablet.
Before we play with the buttons lets take a look at the status of everything, The led
is of and so is its switch, channel 1 is off so is its switch, channel 2 is on and so is
its switch, chanel 3 is on and so is its switch, channel 4 is on but its switch is not on.
Now lets look at the input devices, the button is not pressed and on the interface it says
open, and the door sensor is closed and on the interface it is also closed.
Alright now let's play with everything, when I turn the LED switch on the LED turns
on.
To determine whether a relay is On just look at the leds on the relay board.
When I turn on channel 1 the channel 1 relay turns on, When I turn off the channel 2 switch
the relay turns off, when I turn off channel 3 the relay turns off.
But when I turn on channel 4 the relay turns off.
Now let's test out the input devices, when I press the button it goes to the closed state
and when I separate the door sensor contacts it goes to the open state.
That is it for the GPIO Binding!
If you need any of the parts shown in the video you can buy a kit, the PCB or 3D printed
parts to make this device as well as other devices at the link in the video description.
Alright thank you for watching and If you have any questions leave them in the comments
section below or head over to mksmarthouse.com/forum.
Good Bye!
-------------------------------------------
Hoop It Up: Guide to Successful Embroidery (Part 2 of 2) - Duration: 26:48.
My guest likes to compare machine embroidery to cooking.
When you cook, you follow the recipe, buy the ingredients,
but you sometimes tweak the process.
That's what happens with machine embroidery.
You learn to adjust your design or stabilizer
to fit the project.
Please welcome Marie Zinno,
who is an embroidery entrepreneur
who has much to share with us.
Thank you, Nancy.
I've really discovered that
learning the proper and official way to hooping
will guarantee embroidery success.
In this spa day grouping,
the tote, slippers, and cosmetic case
all require specific hooping recipe.
You might think that these projects
aren't easy to embroider,
but with my tips, you'll find the winning recipe.
"Hoop it Up: A Guide to Successful Embroidery,"
that's what's next on Sewing with Nancy.
Sewing with Nancy,
TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman
is made possible by:
Baby Lock, a complete line of
sewing, quilting, and embroidery machines and sergers.
Baby Lock for the love of sewing.
Madeira, specializing in embroidery, quilting,
and special effect threads;
because creativity is never black and white.
Koala Studios:
fine sewing furniture, custom built in America.
Clover: making a difference
in sewing, quilting, crafting, and needle arts
for over 30 years.
Amazing Designs and Klassé Needles.
I'm hoping that many of you were with us
during the first episode of
"Hoop it Up: Our Guide to Successful Machine Embroidery,"
but if not, you can always go online at NancyZieman.com
and watch the first episode.
And, as you found out during that episode, if you watched it,
we are working with
embroidery, but mainly the placement.
And how to hoop the fabrics because these fabrics
are not necessarily that easy to work with.
No, they're not. No.
Marie is a professional embroiderer and many times
embellishes or changes the blanks.
She's buys these blank projects,
and this tote
always comes with black handles.
It always comes with black handles,
and sometimes I like to change up the color,
whether it navy blue or brown.
I've discovered that they're easy to remove.
You can easily remove the handles with a seam ripper.
And then, if you're going to add a trim
like you did on the top,
you need to choose that first
because that will determine the placement.
Exactly.
You don't want to put your monogram,
or whatever you're personalizing it with, too high.
So I try to demonstrate
or audition either the ribbon or the trim.
Sure.
And then, from that point, I use my target ruler
to place the monogram centered--
Kind of just go between the two handles.
Yeah, you want to make sure it's in the middle.
And then, I use my little handy target sticker
and put it in that center hole,
and then I remove the target roller.
Now, these little stickers
are just used for positioning only.
You're not going to embroider over those,
and they always have an arrow so you know which way is
the top of the design should be.
And they're good for any machine.
So any machine can use these.
So now, when you're working with embroidery,
we're going to show you two options for hooping:
one with a magnetic hoop and one with the traditional hoop.
And if you have...
Let's start with the magnetic hoop.
Okay.
It's not going to hurt your machine at all.
Nope. Not at all.
It's been tested and the technology has improved so much
that we do not need to worry about that.
We're going to show you with the tote bag over here.
Now, you've already marked it.
And I would just put down
a piece of tear-away stabilizer just to be safe.
To be honest, you probably--
It's not necessary, but just for this show,
I think it would be good to show
that you can use the stabilizer.
Take your--
Make it inside out.
Right.
Maybe I should point to that.
So, the bottom frame,
the metal part of the magnetic hoop,
of course, is on your table.
And my target sticker is still in place.
Now, if you notice, it's still a little too low
for me to actually embroider that.
So, I would adjust my tote bag
just so that I'm more centered
so I can fit the whole name
that I'm going to embroider.
I've already measured the size of my name
so I know it's going to fit in my 4" x 4" hoop.
But then, if you would like to
embroider in a standard hoop,
we're going to be using sticky back stabilizer.
Throughout this series we're using different stabilizers,
and sticky back is one of the four basics that I like to use.
It has a shiny cover,
and then, a dull underside.
When you peel off the paper, that's the sticky part.
You have the shiny side up.
So you hoop it before it's sticky so that
it doesn't hurt your hoop or make your hoop totally sticky,
and then I score it with a pin.
Super easy.
And then, you just remove the areas
that you need to be sticky.
So, on a great day, it comes off in about four pieces,
which is what we're doing here.
And then...
I'll let you--
We, again, put the tote...
...inside out.
And the tote body is really over the attachment.
So it's easier, when you're at the machine,
to see how the orientation will go.
And then, we would also use a basting file to hold this down
just to reassure that it won't pop out.
We'll do that at the machine.
But right now, we have it ready to hoop, we have it hooped,
we have it ready to do the embroidery,
and when we go to the sewing machine or the embroidery unit,
we'll show you how to layer...
Yep.
To create a layered monogram,
and then, embroider right on the tote.
Buying a blank tote, adding some trim,
and then, the shadow embroidery
is what we're going to
teach next.
And as you can see, we have two thread colors
with the larger capital letter, and then, the word "Anna."
And we've used a light colored thread
for the larger letter, and then the
navy blue, obviously,
for the word, or the name itself.
And Marie's going to give you some tips of when
she uses light and dark thread.
When you set up your embroidery unit of your sewing machine,
make sure that you put in a new needle and that you use
the appropriate bobbin thread that goes with your machine.
You'll have the unit
and then, the foot that goes with it,
and then you're going to pull up the design.
Now, Marie has taken a little time and
might want to admit that this was about a minute and a half
to get the hoop into the embroidery unit.
Exactly.
You have to be careful when you're attaching the magnetic
frame just so that you don't
bump the unit, the attachment,
to move it out of alignment
and just being careful that you put your correct...
...the bar down just to hold it in place
and that the two frames are lined up.
I've actually brought up my large initial,
which is going to be the 'A', which we'll stitch first.
And that'll be stitched in the lighter color.
And then I'm going to add--
which I already have in memory-- the name 'Anna,'
and then we're going to layer it
on top of the 'A.'
It just seems to be a popular look,
and I do a lot of personalization.
People like it, and it's
just a good idea to, you know,
audition it with the color scheme
and make sure it coordinates with your ribbon and everything.
And then we're going to rotate the entire design
because I have that target sticker on there
and the cross hair on the target sticker
is pointing towards the top of the bag.
It's very important.
And you can see the handles.
You needed to point them toward the handles.
You don't want your name stitched upside down.
I'm going to use these jaw keys real quick
to line it up with the target sticker.
And then, of course, remove that target sticker.
No toppers needed for this bag
because it's just a simple nylon-type bag.
And another feature I always like to...
...to tell students
is to always use the tracing feature that you have.
This will enable and show you that your design is going to
fit perfectly inside the frame or the hoop that you're using.
I'm just careful that
I'm not bumping either side of the magnetic frame
just to be certain that everything is going to fit.
If that was a problem,
then you would just adjust your embroidery design.
Make it a little smaller.
You have all these tools at the machine.
You don't have to re-hoop anything.
So now we're going to stitch the first color.
And the first color
Marie is going to stitch in a light thread color.
Right, right.
Because if you did it in the reverse,
sometimes the bottom color or the thread color
would come through to the top.
You could always change it with density,
but at your fingertips,
it's just easy to use
a lighter color as your base color.
And now, it's stitching the first color, which is white,
for the 'A.'
And notice, I'm kind of holding the body of the bag
out of the way with my hands.
I do also have painter's tape here that we could use
to keep the bulk of it
out of the way, if needed.
But, again, this is a project
that we embroidery-sit.
We're not going to walk away from this.
It's not when we go check the mail,
or stir the pot, stir the sauce or anything.
Get a cup of coffee.
So this takes about six minutes to stitch,
and Marie's going to sew
the majority of this off camera.
Well, Marie, you're getting almost finished
with this one embroidery.
And next, you're going to be adding...
...the name. The name.
But before we do that, you have to do some thread changes.
That's right. But we'll let this finish.
It's almost done.
Marie is what we call "embroider-sitting."
You don't have to work,
but you just have to hold the fabric out of the way.
You don't want to walk away.
You want to kind of watch it.
And the bigger the tote bag, the easier this project is.
So some tote bags are wider than others.
They might be able to fit over the unit of your machine,
which is very helpful.
But sometimes you can't find a tote bag
in the color that you want, so you make do.
And we have a lot of great tools with this machine so...
Okay.
Now we're just going to...
So, we'll quickly change thread colors,
and then, you can see
"Anna" or "Ana" is all ready to go.
That's right.
Let's see how fast you can thread on camera.
Yeah, how fast can you thread a machine?
Yeah.
Well, with this machine, it's really easy,
so it's not a problem.
Okay.
So, here's the beauty of
working with the dark thread on top.
That's right.
So, as you might guess,
we're just going to embroidery-sit this again,
and we'll come back
as soon as
we get "Anna" almost stitched.
Well, Marie, we almost have this stitched,
and I think the
things that I learned from this
is to have the lighter fabric, lighter thread first,
then the darker thread,
a lightweight stabilizer,
and you almost are embroidering
with your tote totally inside out.
Exactly: inside out and kind of upside down.
I know it's kind of awkward,
but now we're going to take it out of,
off the machine.
And you'd remove the tear-away stabilizer
from underneath.
I will, yes, after I get the hoop off the machine.
Carefully do that.
And if you showed
the back of the embroidery hoop,
you can see that you just tear it away.
That's right.
It's quite easy to do.
It's a soft, simple, easy tear-away.
So when it's turned to the right side,
you get this great look
after adding the trim,
and this is the way you hoop it up
for success of a tote.
Make a statement by
embroidering and giving a gift
of personalized slippers.
A single initial is all that's needed.
Follow Marie's hooping tips
for success to achieve the best results.
You may think that embroidering
on slippers is maybe
a little advanced.
Well, the slippers, of course, can lie flat.
But there are some tips
to get the right orientation
of the initial and the monogramming
and we have a left and a right,
and Marie's going to go over
those tips with us.
But we're going to start with
the same type of hoop and the stabilizer as we had before.
Working with the sticky back stabilizer,
removing the shiny surface so that it's sticky
and the slipper can fit into place.
Now, Marie, you've got to get things positioned,
as you've done throughout this two-part series.
When you're only doing
one initial or one design,
you want to make sure it's in the right location.
So, again, I printed out a template on copy paper
of the initial that I'm going to embroider.
One: to make sure it's going to fit within that area,
and, two: so that I can mark my center.
There's actually a cross hair on this printed template.
And then, my little target sticker,
the yellow target sticker, will stay in place
right until I'm ready to embroider.
You want to make sure that the monogram or the initial
is going in the right orientation on both slippers.
And, generally, the wearer
will be reading their initial or their monogram upside down.
Sure.
Most people think it's the other way,
but this is how you would want
you slipper to be monogrammed.
So, we're going to place this
underneath the needle,
lining it up perfect with the target sticker.
And we're going to
add the basting file around that
so that it'll hold down
our water-soluble stabilizer.
So, I've already done that, and you can see that
it moves ahead as the first color.
Now, the basting file,
if you missed the first program,
you can go back and watch it online,
and that just holds down the stabilizer,
a topper stabilizer.
That's right.
And we use a topper that washes away
when you have a knit fabric.
That's right, it holds down the pile
of terrycloth, velour, fleece,
and it just holds the pile of the fabric down
until you're ready to embroider.
So, now I've added the water-soluble stabilizer,
and the basting file is going to stitch...
and hold down that water-soluble stabilizer.
Sometimes you just kind of hold it until it's tacked down.
And years ago, before that, I used to tape it all down.
If you don't have that option--
You can still do that sometimes.
Yeah, you can tape it all down.
So you can see that that little square
is holding down the water-soluble,
and now it's going to stitch the initial.
And it stops, in case we wanted to change a color, but--
And the initial is in the right orientation?
Yes, that's right.
It is something to remember
that you just have to rotate it for each slipper, if possible,
but when you keep the target sticker in place,
it helps you keep track
of what's going on what.
Sometimes, I do four or five pairs of these slippers,
and it gets a little confusing after a while.
So keeping all the target stickers in place
until you're ready to stitch is very helpful.
Now, when you do the opposite slipper,
and you already have that marked, as well.
And then, on the screen,
you're going to have that design,
you're going to make sure you follow
that arrow of the target sticker
so it goes in the right orientation.
That's right because to me it's very helpful
if the body of the slipper is sitting on top
of the attachment of the embroidery machine.
Sure.
Because if it was going the other direction,
it could bump into the inside of the machine
and kind of bump it out of the hoop.
So, when you do this slipper,
we would have to rotate it
so that we do it in the proper orientation.
So, those little stickers with the arrows,
they just tell you what direction
you should do the stitching.
They're very helpful.
Follow those stickers.
Follow the yellow sticker when you're doing the embroidery.
So then, after you've done
the embroidery, we look on the finished slippers.
Marie just tore away the extra sticky back stabilizer
and then, also tore away
the washable stabilizer from the front.
If there's anything left, you can just dampen it,
and it will literally wash away.
Yes, it will.
So, in about 15 minutes
of embroidery time,
knowing these hints, you can personalize a gift,
make a pair of slippers,
and give them to a friend,
and you'll be a hit.
What girlfriend can't use a new cosmetic case?
Impress her with a personalized layered monogram case
featuring trendy colors and embroidery fonts.
Well, this is the third of our trio.
That's right.
Of things that work great for a spa day.
And, Marie, you've chosen blanks
that are especially made for the home embroiderer.
Exactly.
Yeah, there are a ton of blank ready-made items
that are perfect for the home embroiderer
that work in a single hoop
and single needle machine.
Many people have the embroidery unit to their machine,
but they don't use it.
So, that's what we're trying to stress today:
to use it.
So, this waffle weave requires
a different combination of a stabilizer
than we've done earlier today.
Right.
Well, actually, it lays perfectly flat on your
embroidery hoop, which is great.
It unzips, and there's no extra pockets on this side.
So, it's a super easy thing to embroider,
and you would start by finding the center of your case
and marking it with a target sticker.
So, again, you have that little guide
to help you when you're at your hoop
in what direction the monogram or name or whatever should go.
And so I use that little target sticker
so that the zipper would be at the bottom, and
you want to make sure that it reads in the right orientation.
Then you could hoop it either with a sticky back stabilizer,
as we did earlier for the tote bag or the slippers
or you could use magnetic hoop.
And for this case, I did use the magnetic hoop,
and you would use a piece of tear-away stabilizer.
And I like to hoop it
just with the body,
again, sitting on top of the attachment.
It just makes it a little bit easier
so something doesn't bump inside of the machine
and pop it out of alignment.
This you just have to get these positioned in there properly,
and then they will be nice and tight.
And then you would have that.
If you haven't gathered by now,
you would get it lined up at the machine,
as we did earlier today,
remove the target sticker.
And then put the water-soluble stabilizer.
And this is so critical to have a topper
that we often shortcut call it
because of the waffle weave of the fabric.
Exactly. Yeah.
If you're not going to try your software
and change the density or anything,
which I did not even do here,
but I did out of the topper and it worked fine.
Now, speaking of
changing the density,
on some machines, as you can see,
you can increase
the number of stitches.
And you just hit the button
and it increases it so that it fills in more.
That would be very helpful on
a fabric like this.
Not all machines can do that, but if you have that option,
as we just showed you, you can certainly do this.
And then, this is the completed...
...embroidery
where you'd remove the basting file,
tear away the wash-away stabilizer,
and tear away the stabilizer from the back.
So, the embroidery is simple.
It's the positioning
and knowing what stabilizers to use.
That's right.
So, Marie, we've done a trio.
We better show the finished one.
A trio for the spa day.
You've given me
lots of ideas, and I appreciate this.
Oh, good, I'm glad you like it.
And I'm sure that our viewers will take these ideas and
implement them as soon as possible.
I hope so.
Thanks for being my guest. Thank you for having me.
I was so happy to be here.
♪ ♪
Today, during my Nancy's Corner segment,
you'll learn that you can bend the rules of quilting
when finishing art quilts.
Join me at our annual Quilt Expo event
in Madison, Wisconsin,
as I meet with one of my favorite art quilters.
I'm here today with Frieda Anderson,
art author, quilter,
designer, fabric dyer.
Yes.
Boy, you have a litany behind your name, Frieda.
I keep busy. Keep out of trouble.
That's what you do.
And today, we're going to talk about
art quilts, big or small,
and some interesting inside and finishing details.
This is a cute little picture.
It's of my dog, George.
It's a portrait of him.
And this is an art quilt that is postcard size,
but notice how stiff it is.
Right.
And you use a lot of craft interfacing in your projects.
Yes.
It makes for a wonderful way
to frame out smaller pieces.
And that's what I've done in different ways
on these little quilts that I have here.
And you also use fusible web
to adhere the fabric to the...
To the interfacing, right.
It does come with fusible.
You can buy it both ways,
but I like it better to fuse it myself.
And it's stiff.
It is very stiff,
but not so stiff that you can't sew through it.
It's very easy to sew through.
It doesn't require special threads or needles
to do that.
And it's 20" wide, so that's kind of the maximum width.
Yes, that's about as big as you can deal with it as a frame.
So, you've seen the little project,
and the little project is finished on the edges
just with satin stitching.
And I've use a rayon thread to do that, so it's a bit shiny,
but any thread would work to do it.
Cotton or silk or polyester or whatever.
And before you finish it,
you want to put some kind of little label and hook
to hang it up with because
once it's all layered together you can't do that.
Now, we have-- The next option is two layers.
Yes.
I love your contemporary, bright colors.
So this little quilt
was completely made and bound with a fused binding,
and then, I covered the interfacing
with fabric and used
a decorative blade to cut it with,
and then sewed the quilt
right onto the frame.
And, again, it has a little loop on there.
And I sew this label with the loop on
before I make all of the layers.
So the label goes on first. Correct.
Then you would apply... This to the front.
So, it's a picture frame. It is.
It frames it really nice,
and it gives it body when you hang it on the wall
so it becomes stiff... all by itself.
I like this. It's very fun to do.
Now, the next option shows--
beautiful color combinations, I might add,
but it's more like a pillowcase.
It is.
I created the little quilt top
and then pillow-cased it
so there's no binding on the edge.
And then, I left a slit in the middle
which I have covered with my label.
Clever.
And then I cut the interfacing
the same shape as this,
a little bit smaller, and fit it in.
Like the pillow. Like the pillow.
So, you made the pillowcase, which is the outer design?
Slipped it in, and then you did...
And then I stitched a little bit to hold the layers together.
Like stitching in the ditch.
That's exactly what I did, yep.
Now we have a pretty, pretty one for the...
One more way to deal with it.
I'm just going to de-thread it.
There we go.
So this one,
I made the little quilt again and finished it off.
And then when I took the interfacing,
I wrapped it like a package.
And you can see the corners
right here are mitered, just like you would wrap a package.
And I put a little bit of fusible in there
and fused it down.
Right behind the whole picture,
there's no fabric.
So it's the white showing.
And then, stitch the quilt onto the front of it.
Again, with a little label and hook on the back.
And this is about as big as you can get with the project.
And also, in the bed of your machine,
you only have so much width.
Exactly, you only have so much room you can feed it in there.
And since it is a little bulkier, that's why.
Right, but it is stitched down through the machine,
so you can see that that's five or six layers
that I've stitched through right here without
any issue at all.
It really stitches so easily.
Well, Frieda, many of us think of quilts
as big bed quilts, but they can be...
Small wall pieces, art pieces as well.
And then, instead of using the traditional batting,
work with craft interfacing to make them
like works of art, which they are.
Thank you.
Thank you for being with us. My pleasure.
Thank you for asking me.
It's time to wrap up
this two-part series on "Hoop it Up."
A special thank you to Marie Zinno
for sharing her embroidery expertise.
If you'd like to rewatch this episode
or any Sewing with Nancy episode from recent seasons,
go to NancyZieman.com,
and you can watch online.
Or at the site,
join me on my blog or follow me on Facebook.
Thanks for joining me today. Bye for now.
Marie Zinno and Eileen Roche have written the book,
"Hoop It Up: Guide to Successful Embroidery"
which is used as the reference for this two-part series,
and includes six embroidery positioning tools.
It's $29.99, plus shipping and handling.
To order the book, call 800-336-8373
or visit our website at SewingWithNancy.com/2924.
Order item number BK00125,
"Hoop It Up: Guide to Successful Embroidery"
Credit card orders only.
To pay by check or money order,
call the number on the screen for details.
Visit Nancy's website at NancyZieman.com
to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more.
Sewing with Nancy
TV's longest-airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman
has been brought to you by:
Baby Lock;
Madeira Threads;
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Sewing with Nancy
-------------------------------------------
Beginners Guide to the FZ300/330 Part 5 - Filters and Close Up Lenses - Duration: 15:50.
Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day and welcome to the
fifth part of this new series I'm running for new users to the Panasonic
Lumix FZ300/330 camera now. In today's video we're going
to be looking at the use of filters and close-up lenses with the camera. It's a
question I get quite often on my Photographic blog, the choice of
filters, which type to use, which situations would use the filters and for
close-up lenses which would be my recommendations for the type of filter
for macro and close at work. Let's begin by looking at probably one of the most
controversial filters - and that's that UV filter. Now the UV filter has its origins
back in the days of film. Film emulsion has a high sensitivity to UV light and
if you shooting landscapes for example you may notice that the distant hills
would turn blue because of the amount of ultraviolet and the water vapour so we
used a UV filter which would eliminate that blue cast to the image. But with
modern digital camera sensors, the sensor itself has both infrared and ultraviolet
absorption layers in front of it so there's absolutely no reason to fit UV
filters to the camera. Now this is where the controversy comes in some people say
that it's a good idea to fit these to protect the front element of the lens
and other people say no, if you do that you're going to degrade the image
quality and you lose a low contrast and you're not actually going to protect the
lens at all. Now I'm of the school that says only fit the filter in an adverse
situation - such as if you're at the seaside and you've got the chance of
salt spray contacting the lens or you perhaps at Motorsports where there's a
chance of flying debris coming hitting the lens but in normal circumstances I
would recommend that you don't fit the UV filter. If you are fitting the filter
make sure the camera lens is scrupulously clean before you fit it and make sure
you clean both the front and back surface of the filter otherwise when
you're in the wide-angle mode you might even see dust on the front surface of
this lens. When you're in that wide-angle position especially if you're shooting
towards the light the camera with his closed focus ability will show you that
dust on the film on the front of the lens. The best form of protection is in fact a lens hood and the number of people I see
carrying cameras around that don't use a lens and it's amazing it's there to
provide both the functionality of protecting the front surface of the lens
and to shade the lens from stray light. So once the lens hoods installed you're
not likely to impact the front face of the lens and in most cases it's going to
shield the light from hitting the camera lens giving you ghosting and flaring and
loss of contrast - so always use your lens hood - It's there for that purpose. If you
are going to fit the UV filter I say clean front and back surfaces screw it
onto the lens and then replace your lens hood. It's not a good idea to stack
filters so if you're going to use say the circular polarizing filter -we're going
to talk about next - you must remove the UV filter before you fit the circular
polarizing filter otherwise you're introducing too many glass to air
elements and the risk of ghosting and flaring the loss of contrast is even
more severe. So let's now look at the circular polarizing filter. Now the
circular polarizing filter is there to reduce reflections in natural light. It
doesn't work in artificial light so it's no use trying to use them indoors to
take reflections off pictures and mirrors etc it won't work but if you're
in natural light outdoors it can reduce the reflection. But there is a caveat as
well - it only works when the light is between 90 degrees and say 45 degrees to
the camera axis. If the sun is back over your shoulder and you're trying to
photograph something you won't see any reduction in reflections at all. Here's a
demonstration clip that I shot. The light is directly over my shoulder and I'm
rotating this circular polarizing filter through 360 degrees and you notice
there's no reduction in that reflection on the leaves. Turn to another situation
where the light is now coming at 45 degrees or between 45 and 90 degrees to
the camera and you can see that as I rotate the filter I can totally
eliminate those reflections from the leaves or the water behind in that case.
So you can see when the light is at 45 or 90 degrees to camera I can totally
reduce those reflections from the leaves or
shooting water you can see that I can reduce most of those reflections from
the water. So the circular polarizing filter screws into the front element of
the lens and then you can rotate it while you're looking through the
viewfinder to see when that cut point appears. Now it's probably impossible to
fit the circular polarizing filter and the lens hood at simultaneously because
you need to get your hands inside to adjust that front rotating ring. So once
that's in there "A" you can't install the lens at afterwards and if you install
the lens hood and then try and install the filter you see you can't get your
fingers in there to adjust the front element so it is a situation where
you're going to be using the camera without the lens hood. So again the
chances of ghosting or flaring because of light striking those glass surfaces
is very much increased. Don't be tempted to try the linear polarizing filter
which again has its origins in the film days. Linear polarizing filter may upset
the way that the camera autofocuses so always choose the circular polarizing
filter for your polarizing needs. Now let's look at another variant to the
circular polarizing filter and it's the neutral density filter. Well the neutral
density filter comes in two varieties one is the variable type and this one is
a variable ND filter. It's basically two polarizing filters - one is fixed and one
rotates and by overlapping the cut angle of each other filters you can actually
totally eliminate the light coming into the camera. Again there's a problem with
that - as you start to go to the maximum densities you do see a colour shift
appearing or in some severe cases you'll see an X appear on the image where the
two polarizing faces cross over. So you can only use them from the minimum to
about three-quarters of the ability to reduce light - but they're useful
especially in video to get you the correct frame rate but I'll talk about
that when we do the video section of this tutorial.
The other filters are the fixed neutral density and this one is the
Hoya Pro ND 200 which is an 8 F-stop filter so that reduces the amount of
light reaching the sense of by a factor of 8 f-stops so it's ideal for shooting
things like running water where you want to create those soft dreamy flowing
water scenes or if you're a seaside you wanted to create a very still looking sea.
Long time exposures are created by using the neutral density filter. If you wanted
further light reduction you could use the Hoya Pro ND 1000 and the Hoya ND
1000 is a 10 stop reduction in light so where the Pro ND 200 is effectively eight
stops reduction the Pro ND 1000 is 10 stops - so it gives you an extra two stops
of light reduction if you wanted to create super long time exposures - so the
reason for these is to extend your shutter time to give you those long time
exposures. With some of these filters there's also the possibility of a colour
balance change especially if you use in the darker filters say the ND 8. You'll
find that you get a colour shift normally towards a green or some cases towards
the magenta dependant on the dye set that's been used with the filter. So it's
worth buying a good filter for both optical quality so you don't get any
reduction in optical quality and "B" the color balance stay neutral as you
use the ND filter. You can of course use a manual white balance to try and reduce
that it may help in some circumstances, I've used the welding filter which is
about 10 stops and again by using manual white balance I was able to get a
neutral picture by using that manual white balance setup in the camera.
Now a variation of the neutral density filter is the use of what are called
graduated neutral density filters. Now to use those you need the adapter to go
with your camera so that goes from the 52 millimeter thread to the 100
millimeter square filter holder. Most of this operation you could do in
post-processing. If you use neutral density filter in something like
Photoshop or Lightroom you can create the same effect but if you don't want to
do any post-processing and you wanted to reduce the amount of burnout in skies
for example you can use one of these neutral
graduated filters. So they clear at the
bottom and they've gotta then a variable graduation from nothing up to a fixed
amount of density so you can slide this into the filter holder and with the
filter holder on the camera you can look through the viewfinder and see at the
point of which you starting to cut off the the amount of light in the sky. It's
ok if you've got a level horizon but sometimes if you've got mountains and
valleys you notice that the graduation darkens the mountains and it looks
slightly artificial. So in those sort of situations is better to create a mask in
Photoshop and then reduce the sky without reducing the mountains. But these
are useful if you wanted to stack things like neutral density and fixed density
so your making long time exposures and your shading down the sky you can
use two filters slight together they're very close together so you don't get vignetting
and with a hundred millimetres frame you don't see any vignetting even
at the wide-angle setting. So if you really want to improve your landscape
photography you might want to consider using the hundred millimeter square
filter holders instead of the circle ones. Now let's look at close-up lenses.
Some people refer to them as close-up filters because it actually 52
millimeter threaded and this screw onto the front of the camera so hence the
name close-up filter. With close-up lenses there are two notation systems -
one is the diopter and your probably gets sets of number one number two number
and some systems even include a number ten which is quite a high magnification and
other systems use the "D" designation. So in fact this one here is the polaroid
250D and that gives a four times magnification so there is a number 500
which gives you two times magnification but the 250D is the one I normally use
as that gives me a nice magnification ratio and a suitable working distance to
my subjects. Now there are two types of lenses one is the single element lens
and the other is called an achromatic lens.
Now the achromatic lens is actually two lenses or three lenses bonded together
to reduce some of these defects that you get with a single element lens - with a
single element lens you get distortion around the outside edge
and sometimes you get what's called colour fringing or chromatic aberration where
the lens can't focus the three colors of red green blue to the same focus point
so you end up with color fringes so it's best if you are going to get into
close-up photography to choose what first of all an achromatic lens so this
is a sigma a chromatic lens quite an old lens but still a very good sharp
close-up lenses. They're very difficult to find now so the hence the reason for
choosing the Polaroid 250d lens as a substitute for it again that's an
achromatic lens 52 millimeters and it screws into the front of the camera and
gives me that four times magnification
Another system is the Raynox system And the Raynox system comes with its
own mount system so the Raynox has a adapter which will fit most cameras from
52 millimeters up to 62 millimetres and it just simply clips into the lens
thread of the camera and then you screw the particular lens that you want into
their adapter. Now that is fine it works well but there is a possibility that you
might just catch the tub and push it off and also if you don't get it on square
you could end up with a part of your image being in focus and the other not
so I tend to not use the supplied adapter but you step up rings from the
43 millimeters that the lens has up to 52 millimeters I've adapted from 43 up
to 52 and then that screws on to the front of the camera like so - and that
keeps the lens nice and optically centered and it's parallel to the film
plane so you don't get any shift in focus or optical shift in the axis as you
screw the lens on. Again they're available in two strengths the 150 and
the 250 if you're a new user to macro photography that 150 is much easier to
use than to 250 and it gives you a little bit more depth of field so if you
are struggling to get depth of field in macro shots and you don't want to use
stacking technologies to produce multiple images and stack them
to one image then the 150 is a good starting lens gives you a nice working
distance to your subject and gives you a reasonable amount of magnification. Now
I'm going to put a link to a page of my blog where I set out the magnifications
and the amount of subject to camera distance that you expect to achieve on
using these close-up lenses on that chart you'll see the various focus
distances you can achieve when you've got the camera set to infinity and when
you've got it set to its closest focus point you'll see the distances you've
got the camera to the subject so dependent on the type of photography
whether you're shooting insects or flowers - you judge the amount of magnification and
the distance you need to be from those charts on that blog page. So hope you'll
go and have a look at that and decide which lens to use. In terms of optical
quality there's not a lot of difference between the Raynox and the Polaroid
system you do suffer from vignetting up to x 4 with the Raynox lens if you look
through the back of the viewfinder when you first install it you see there's a
very dark circle and you've got to zoom out to about x 4 to enable you to move
past that vignetting point if you use the 250 d you can use a camera all the
way from 24 millimetres all the way up to 600 millimetres to get the required
magnification without any vignette in from the lens itself. So hopefully that's
given you some insight introduced of filters and close-up lenses with this
camera and have a look at the photographic blog there's a lot more
information on filters and close-up lens there and I'll put links to those in
the video description below. Now the next video is going to be on shooting video
with the FZ300/330 will be quite a long program - there's a lot to talk about
recording sound with the video it's likely to be about three weeks before I
can gather ready because I'm into the middle of a very large DIY project at
home and it's going to take me about another two weeks to be able to complete
that before the weather starts to get too bad here in the UK. So hopefully I'm
going to get you that video within the next two to three weeks depending on the
weather outside etc. So until the next one thanks again for watching if you're
new viewer to the channel please check out the previous
four of the videos. There will be a playlist in YouTube so you can actually look at
the previous videos - so until the next video thanks very much for watching
please do take care and I'll see you all in the next one.
Goodbye for now.
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Allen Edmonds Shoe Polish Color Guide | Saphir Medaille D'Or - Duration: 19:11.
Hi I'm Kirby Allison founder of The Hanger
Project. In today's video,
I'm going to show you how to match the perfect
Saphir Medaille d'Or shoe polish color
to your pair of Allen Edmonds dress
shoes. One of the most frequent questions
we receive here at The Hangar Project is
what color shoe polish should I use for my
Allen Edmonds?
Now we received that specifically for Allen
Edmonds because it's one of the most
popular
and certainly most important shoe
companies here in the United States still
manufacturing high quality
fully welted dress shoes
in America.
For the money, about $395
for these dress shoes we have here.
You really can't beat it.
And one of the things that I always say is that
if you're looking to really invest
in a proper dress shoe that's going to last
years if not decades;
you really need to be at the Allen
Edmonds quality level
or better. The full 360
degree Goodyear welting means that you
can resole your shoes as often
as you need to.
And Allen Edmonds uses a really high
quality upper leather that
is only going to look better
with time
and only going to look better
with proper polish.
If you have any questions
or comments during this video,
please ask them in the comments section
below. Let us know what you think.
Do you wear Allen Edmonds?
What type of Allen Edmonds shoes do
you have? And then if you had any challenges
choosing the proper color shoe polish
for your pair of AE's.
When selecting your shoe polish color
it's important to understand that there's never going to be
a perfect match.
I mean with the exception of black it doesn't
matter how many different shoe polish colors
you have.
You're not going to be able to find the perfect
pigmented cream polish
that is made for the pair of
shoes that you have.
The reason is is that there are so many different shoe
manufacturers out there that
a medium brown
or a light brown from one company to another
is never going to be the same.
And even
with the same shoe it's never going to be the same.
Allen Edmonds for instance hand applies
all of their finishes,
so if you pull out five different pairs
of Walnut Allen Edmonds
shoes,
most likely each of those shoes
is going to have a slightly different finish
and that's one of the things I really love about
a high quality pair of shoes.
Part of the magic of polishing your
own shoes is to see how that finish,
the patina,
evolves over the lifetime
of the shoe as you put more
polish into the leather.
And choosing your shoe polish color,
you really have an opportunity to make
a decision as to what direction
you're going to take that finish so that those
shoes are really personalized to
you.
I have a pair of Allen Edmonds dress shoes
in each of the five most popular
finishes that I think
that anyone should consider.
Now these are the most kind of traditional
conservative finishes that you're going to find
on all of Allen Edmonds most popular
models.
Of course we have Black
and then we have Oxblood,
Brown,
Walnut and Dark Chili.
5 beautiful finishes
and really you couldn't go wrong
with a pair of Allen Edmonds shoes in
any of these colors.
The first pair of dress shoes I bought in college
was a black pair of Allen
Edmonds Park Avenues.
This cap-toe Oxford is certainly one of the most
traditional formal dress shoes
that you can buy.
And then the color black,
you can wear it for anything.
You can wear it during the day,
you can wear it at night,
you can wear it to a wedding,
a funeral or to your first interview.
So if you're only going to buy one
shoe, this is the shoe to
invest in.
Now Black is easy of course you're going to use
a black shoe polish.
Now what's great about the Saphir
Medaille d'Or black polish
and as you can see here
is that again it has
such a high concentration
of pigment in it that you really
get great saturation of the
finish itself.
Even though if you're buying a pair new
from the factory, I absolutely
recommend polishing them first.
We have a video on how to shine a new pair
of shoes.
There is no polish
or actual finishing on a pair of shoes
straight from the factory.
So if we were to polish these
with a little bit of cream polish
and then buff it off you would actually see
a real nice shine begin to develop.
Also the waxes in both the cream
and the wax polish are going to help protect
the leather
and just give it that,
that finished look of a
well cared pair of shoes.
With black, of course I'd
recommend a black polish.
Next, I have a pair of Park Avenues in
Oxblood. Now Oxblood is a beautiful
finish that combines red
with a little bit of black to create
a deep kind of burgundy
that has visual interest.
Right. It's got color,
but it still means business.
It's still formal So there's several
different color polishes that you could use
here. And once we get away from
Black into some of the other finishes,
we're really going to see how different polishes
can take the shoe in a different direction.
First is Hermes Red.
The second color is Mahogany.
And then the third possible color you could use
is Burgundy.
Right. Now each of these three
polishes are going to take this shoe
in a little bit different direction.
So let's take a look
at how that would work by smearing
the polish on a little bit of white paper.
I like to take a pigmented polish
and smear it on paper
because it allows you to really better
see the pigment
in the polish and where that would take.
Hermes Red
has more red in it.
Mahogany is more of
the Brown family.
It still has some red,
a little bit lighter of a red than the
Hermes Red and is probably a little bit closer
to brown. And then last is
Burgundy.
Burgundy absolutely has
very strong hints of purple.
So first I'm starting
with the Burgundy
and the Burgundy really blends
into
the Oxblood quite nicely.
But again those purple pigments
are going to darken the leather
slightly so
with the burgundy polish again we're bringing
out some of those purple undertones
that you get whenever you mix black
and red. And next time going to show you
what the Hermes Red looks like.
It sounds like a strong pigment color,
but as I apply it here.
It too
blends in quite nicely.
So if you were to use Hermes Red on
these Oxbloods,
again you would be pulling out that red
finish.
It's still quite subtle,
but nevertheless looks great.
Now last is the Mahogany.
And Mahogany,
again as I said has a little
bit less red in it than the
Hermes Red
and more brown
and so of the three polishes,
this one is the one that I would say
probably least matches
this Oxblood finish.
So if you were looking to mute
the finish,
maybe you would use a Mahogany.
But of the three different pigment colors that we
have here I would say that Mahogany
actually matches this Oxblood
the least.
My two recommendations for the Allen
Edmonds Oxblood is
either the number 12
Hermes Red if you want to accentuate
some of the red in this finish
or the number 8
Burgundy if you want to bring out
the purple.
Next we have the
Allen Edmonds Brown finish.
This is the Fifth Avenue in brown.
Now the Fifth Avenue is a slightly
less formal dress shoe than the Park
Avenue because of the broging across
the cap,
but still very much a formal
dress shoe.
Now to call this Brown is really
honestly a little misleading because
this is a dark brown.
And so for this shoe the only
polish that I would recommend is going
to be the Saphir Dark Brown.
The number 5 Dark Brown
is almost a black
and as you can see from this shoe,
it is such a dark finish that
in low light it would be mistaken
for a black.
So if I smear this
onto again my swatch
card you can see
that it is almost as dark
as that black.
I mean it is a proper dark brown.
And I've got a little bit of scuffing right here.
I'm going to put this polish over
that scuff mark
and you can see that the Dark
Brown really perfectly
matches the Allen Edmonds brown
color.
Let's buff that off and see how that works.
So that scuff mark all
but completely removed
with a little bit of additional polish,
the waxes would really help completely
conceal that.
But from a pigment perspective,
any discoloration from scuffing is going
to be fixed very easily
with a good cream polish.
So here I have the
Allen Edmonds strand in their Walnut
color.
Now walnut is a beautiful
medium brown.
This is probably the second dress
shoe anyone should buy next to the black.
Everyone needs a good brown
that's not too light,
not too dark.
This to me is the quintessential brown
dress shoe. Now what's nice about the Strand
is that as you can see there's a little bit more
brogging across this.
So again it's a less formal shoe
than say this the Fifth
Avenue or the Park Avenue
which is perfect for Brown.
So,
for this shoe there's two polish colors
that I think you could use.
One is the light brown.
Now the light brown again
is slightly lighter
than the finish of this shoe.
And so you're not going to have to worry about
it excessively darkening
the leather but it still has enough
pigment in it that
if you have any type of scratching
it's going to fill that in.
And depending on what area of the shoe
you know, the light brown is either
a perfect match where
the polish saturation is not that great
or it's a little bit dark where you see
some more burnishing.
So you could also use
the Medium Brown.Now
the Medium Brown
would definitely darken this a little bit.
And if I put this on the swatch card,
you're going to be able to see the difference
in these two.
Definitely darker.
If I put it on the lighter area
of the shoe you can really see how it makes
a difference. It's going to darken that a little
bit.
But here, say on the toe cap
it's slightly less dark.
Now,
let's see.
Here is the Cognac.
You might also be able to use the
Cognac on here.
The Cognac again has maybe a little
bit too much red in it.
That's not to say that you couldn't use it you just
have to understand how that red is going to bring
the finish of the shoe you
know as I said earlier
you know choosing the correct polish
color is more of an art
than it is a science
and is a complete function of personal
preference.
You absolutely cannot ruin a pair
of dress shoes by using the wrong polish color
as long as you're not trying to use a black
on a light brown pair of shoes.
For the Allan Edmonds Walnut finish,
if you're looking to really maintain
that original finish,
I'm going to recommend the number
3 light brown.
If you're OK with the slight darkening
or if you want to introduce a little bit
of a burnishing
or antiquing affect to these Walnuts,
then I would recommend the number 37
Medium Brown.
And if you really want to play around
with the finish of your shoes you could absolutely
use the number 10
Cognac.
Here is the Allan Edmonds Dark
Chili. Now the Dark Chili is
really a medium brown to
a medium to dark brown
with a little bit of red
introduced into the finish.
It's a beautiful shoe.
It's shown here in the McAllister
wingtip which is your
classic wingtip dress shoe.
Formal
but still certainly more
visually interesting than your plain
cap-toe Park Avenue.
So for these shoes I would recommend
either the Tobacco Brown,
which would darken the finish slightly
or the Medium Brown.
Now the Medium Brown is probably the
safest polish to use if you're looking
for really just maintain
the finish of these shoes.
It blends in nicely.
It'll fix any type of scuffing you
have without unnecessarily
darkening the finish.
So let's see how that buffs off.
Now the Havana Brown is
going to be slightly darker than the Medium
Brown.
It's not going to
dramatically change the finish,
but it's perfect for
the areas of the shoe where there is a little bit
of burnishing.
And once you massage this
and smooth it out across the leather,
again
it's going to darken it slightly in the light
areas,
match perfectly in those dark areas,
but absolutely works
with this Dark Chilli.
The McAllister wingtip in the Dark
Chili is a beautiful classic shoe
that certainly is not out of place
in any classic wardrobe.
If you're really looking to darken this
and kind of further the antiquing,
I recommend the number 30 for
Tobacco Brown.
And if you just want to maintain that finish
without any risk of darkening,
then I would recommend the number 37
Medium Brown.
Here at The Hanger Project,
I really recommend the primary use
of a cream polish
and polishing your shoes.
Now most people only think of a wax
polish whenever it comes to shining their shoes
but a wax polish doesn't have the
same concentration of pigment that's
going to renew
and refinish the patina of
the shoe
and second a wax polish isn't
going to do as good of a job as a cream polish
to nourish
and condition
and to feed that leather to
keep it looking soft
and supple
and to prevent any type of drying that
may result in cracking.
The Saphir Medaille d'Or
Pommadier cream polish is widely considered
by shoe aficionados to be the highest
quality cream shoe polish out there
in the world. The reason is it
uses an all natural pine base
turpentine
and a high concentration of shea butter,
waxes and other nutrients that
are going to feed the leather
to keep it soft,
supple and to prevent cracking.
Since the Allen Edmonds shoes uses
such a high quality leather,
an open grain leather that hasn't
been unnaturally treated
or closed, it's even more
important to use a high quality
luxury shoe polish like the
Saphir Medaille d'or. Spending a little bit
of extra money on your polish will really
make a difference in how these shoes
look and last for the long term.
One of the frequently asked questions that we receive
here at The Hanger Project is what to do
with a new pair of dress shoes.
So let's just say you just went out
and bought your first pair beautiful Allen
Edmonds dress shoe.
Can you just put them on
and start wearing them?
Spending a little bit of time right when you
receive a pair of dress shoes to polish them
is absolutely something we recommend.
The reason is because no factory
that's making ready to wear shoes
has the time to actually hand
polish a pair of shoes.
So although it's finished
the leather is dyed.
It looks great.
They haven't actually been polished
with a proper shoe polish.
And then certainly any new pair of shoes
needs their own shoe trees.
The reason is is that as you wear
a pair of shoes,
the shoe leather is going to absorb
moisture as you're flexing the
shoe, it's going to naturally
bend.
So whenever you take your shoes off at the end
of the night you're going to find that they naturally
kind of flex upward.
Now the purpose of the shoe tree is it stretches
that shoe flat so that
as the moisture begins to evaporate
the shoe dries flat
and not bent.
Second of course is lacing the
shoes.
Some shoes come laced,
sometimes the salesperson
at the shoe store will lace them for you.
But we have a video specifically
showing you how to lace your shoes
using the straight across our
barbell method,
which I think looks the cleanest on
a formal pair of dress shoes.
Another question that we receive often
here at The Hanger Project is what happens
if I used the wrong shoe polish
on a pair of shoes.
Well it's not the end of the world.
Any polish that you put on top of a
pair of leather dress shoes can easily be
removed using the Saphir Reno mag,
which basically pulls off anything
placed on top of the original finish
but is still safe to use without
affecting the original dye.
Second I always recommend first
testing the polish on a small
kind of hidden
or discrete area of the shoe
just to see how the leather is going to interact
or play with the polish that you're using
because it's always going to change
just a little bit and you can never be quite
certain of what is going to look like.
And then of course here at The Hanger Project
we sell samples of all of our polishes.
So if you want to try a few different polishes
off before you commit to purchasing an entire
jar, take a look at our shoe polish
section and we offer small
tiny samples that you can use to verify
finish. Now Allen Edmonds has
way more than just five finishes.
They've really done a fantastic job
at adding new
and interesting finishes across
their entire range.
Now these four models that
we show here are just available
in the finishes that I've shown.
But a lot of them are more seasonal collections
come in colors like blue,
green you know
beautiful different the patinas.
And so my suggestion would be to
take a look at our polishing notes
to order samples if you'd like to
and just go with what you think is going
to be the closest match.
Lastly,
if you have any questions about what
type of shoe polish you should select
for a color that we didn't cover here
or maybe from a pair of shoes from
a completely different brand.
Don't hesitate to email customer service
with a link to a photograph of the shoe
or an actual photograph of the shoe
and of course we'd be more than happy to
help coach you in selecting the right polish.
If you have any questions about
anything we discussed in this video
don't hesitate to ask them in the comments
section below.
I get back to all those questions myself
personally.
Also let us know what's your favorite
Allen Edmonds finish?
How do you shine your shoes?
Do you have any tips for us on things
that you've learned?
And then any stories you have just about
Allen Edmonds.
It's a great all-American shoe brand.
It's certainly one of the top shoes that
you can get for the under $400 price
point. And we always love to hear
about what our viewers think.
If you like this video give us the thumbs
up and subscribe to our YouTube channel
so that you can receive notifications whenever
we release our next video.
I'm Kirby Allison. Thanks for joining us.
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Splasher - Juggler Trophy Guide (Big Bounce Theory) - Duration: 1:01.
Splasher - Juggler
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The Solo Female Travel Guide, Based on Our Favorite Films - Duration: 5:53.
The Solo Female Travel Guide, Based on Our Favorite Films
We already know that girls run the world, but did you know theyre also traveling it now more than ever? According to recent reports from the George Washington University School of Business and the Travel Industry Association, female travel is on the rise, and many are looking to do it on their own.
Two-thirds of travelers today are women, and an estimated 32 million single women traveled at least once in the last year. Maybe its the Wild effect; maybe its the product of an era where females are more empowered and self-confident.
Whatever is triggering this adventure bug, the ladies now outnumber men in leisure travel. Queue the shot of Julia Roberts exploring Bali on her bicycle. From soul-searching vacations to adventure-seeking getaways, women are seeing the world in increasingly high numbers.
And dont think that independent travel is an isolating experience. Through participating in different activities and meeting other people on the road, travelers often bond and make new connections.
Starting to feel that itch? Weve created a guide for the solo female voyager looking to begin her next journey.
All the suggestions are based off films that feature strong female leads who were embarking on these kinds of trips before it was trending. Scroll through for the inspiration to plan your own itinerary. .
Wild In an attempt to put her life back together again, main character Cheryl (played by Reese Witherspoon) sets out by herself to hike the Pacific Crest Trail, which runs from Mexico to Canada.
She has no experience outdoors, just her own determination to conquer one of the countrys toughest trails. Tehachapi Pass Instead of setting out for the full 93-day trek like Cheryl, consider visiting just one part of her incredible route.
The Tehachapi Pass is where the main character (and the real-life Cheryl Strayed) first stepped onto the trail. You can actually experience the challenging terrain on a six-mile day hike.
John Muir Trail This federally designated wilderness area is in the Central California section of the Pacific Crest trail.
While its only a portion of Cheryls journey, this trail is still is a long-distance, difficult hike through the High Sierra backcountry. Its most-visited during the months of July, August or September.
Article continues below Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument Reeses character takes an important hiatus from her walk while in Ashland, Oregon. To hike in this area, visit the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, which recognizes the areas biological diversity.
Expect to find lush meadows, dense forests and vast canyons. Eat Pray Love Prompted by her struggle through a bad divorce and confused life priorities, Elizabeth Gilbert left everything she knew for the ultimate self-discovery adventure through Italy, India and Indonesia.
Weve found some of the spots from her life-changing itinerary to help you organize your own transformational trip. After all, Bali is always a good idea, right? Il Gelato di San Crispino When traveling in Italy, gelato is a must.
Julia Robertss character, Elizabeth, was on the hunt for the best ice cream in Rome, and a bus driver recommends Il Gelato di San Crispino. Try it out for yourself during your own Italian adventure.
Article continues below Gurudev Siddha Peeth Ashram If youre a yoga enthusiast, think about traveling to India to deepen you practice and understanding of the discipline.
While the ashram scenes in India were shot at Ashram Hari Mandir, the real-life Elizabeth Gilbert is believed to have stayed at Gurudev Siddha Peeth.
Ubud Inn Cottages As if going to Bali wasnt already on our bucket list, watching Elizabeth zip around on her bicycle and wander the beaches in Indonesia gave us serious wanderlust.
Book a room at the exact inn where she stayed in the heart of the island. You can visit the jungle, explore breath-taking temples and shrines or try out snorkeling.
Roman Holiday A rebellious princess escapes the royal duties of her European tour for a night in Rome. This turns into a day of freedom around the romantic Italian city that includes stops at some of its most iconic landmarks.
Plan your own escape, Audrey Hepburn-style (you probably wont need to go incognito for this).
Article continues below Trevi Fountain The barber shop where Princess Ann cuts off her hair after admiring the style on another woman is located just east of the Trevi Fountain.
You cant go to Rome without visiting this famous Baroque landmark, but be prepared to battle plenty of tourists in order to toss in your lucky coin.
National Museum of Castel SantAngelo The same man who cut Princess Anns hair also invites her to a night of dancing on the Tiber River—one of the best scenes from the film.
The barge isnt there anymore, but you can still visit the Castel SantAngelo, which was formerly a castle, a papal residence and a prison before becoming a national museum.
We dont recommend jumping into the river like the films main character, however. Roman Forum This is the location of Ann and character Joe Bradleys first encounter. For all you history buffs, this spot will blow you away.
The Roman Forum is a plaza surrounded by the ruins of several ancient government buildings in the center of the city.
It was the site of elections, public speeches and gladiator matches, as well as the spot where the princess falls asleep at the beginning of this film.
Article continues below The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants Four best friends from Maryland set off on their own independent adventures during summer break. One pair of pants manages to keep them connected.
This coming-of-age film still gives us all the feels, and a lot of ideas about where to travel. While Bridget heads off to Mexico, Lena visits family in Greece.
Weve found their exact locations from the movie so you can take off too—no magic pants required. Oia, Greece The scenes of Lenas trip to Greece were done in Oia, a coastal town in the northwestern part of Santorini.
What more could a traveler ask for in a vacation than those iconic whitewashed houses, soaring cliffs and and sparkling blue sea? If youre seeking a peaceful, picturesque getaway, this is the destination for you.
Jump into the water at the Amoudi Wharf—just like in the movie. Los Cabos, Mexico Blake Lively, who played Bridget in the movie, filmed her solo scenes in Mexicos resort city of Cabo San Lucas.
Its well known for attracting both an A-list crowd as well as spring breakers.
Hit the beach or try something new, like swimming with dolphins or exploring the nearby Desert Park Natural Reserve. Article continues below Kamloops, Canada Some of Bridgets soccer shots were actually filmed in Kamloops, a welcoming city in British Columbia.
Even if youre not looking to get out on the field, there is plenty to discover in this Canadian town. Its definitely a destination for the outdoorsy types, so add it to your list if you like nature.
The best time to go is winter so you can participate in activities snowshoeing, ice fishing or snowmobiling. This is also a great way to bond with other solo travelers.
move close Now Playing Up Next Travel Beauty Tips: In-Flight Skin Secrets of a Hollywood Jetsetter. Were ready to get packing. Which destination is on your must-visit list?. RELATED ARTICLE: Plan Your Next Girls Trip Like Kendall Jenner & Bella Hadid.
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Microsoft's guide for going password-less - Duration: 1:02:07.
For more infomation >> Microsoft's guide for going password-less - Duration: 1:02:07. -------------------------------------------
Orlando | Epcot – Disney Theme Park | Travel Guide | Episode# 7 - Duration: 6:11.
Hipfig Travel Channel offers DIY Travel Video Guides for more than 25 cities in
Asia, US, and Canada. If you like this video then subscribe, give us a thumbs up,
or a comment. Welcome to Hipfig's Travel Guide Series
in Orlando. Florida. Planning to visit Epcot in Orlando? Then watch this Travel
Video for free tips and insights to save you time and money. Make sure to watch
the entire video so you don't miss any tips. There are several ways to get to
Epcot. If you're staying at a Disney Resort you can take a water taxi, Disney
transport bus, or monorail to Epcot. Check with your hotel. If you're being dropped
off by taxi or private car , you'll be dropped off near a designated spot near
the entrance of Epcot. If you are taking the LYNX bus, you will have to take
LYNX bus route number 50 or 56. It will drop you off at the Disney Springs
Transfer Center or the Disney World Ticket and Transportation center also
known as the TTC for the Magic Kingdom. We recommend getting off at the TTC. Here
you go through security and then board the Express Monorail to Epcot. If you're
driving your own car, take I-4 and take exit 67. Follow the signs for Epcot and
pay for parking at the toll booth. Park your car as directed. Your parking fee
allows you to park at any of the four Disney parks and have in-and-out
privileges on that day only. After securing your, car walk to the tram
entrance and take the Disney tram to the main entrance of Epcot. Tip 1: take a
picture of your parking Lane and Row number on your phone or write it down so
that you are not looking for your car at the end of the night. The parking lot is
huge and it is not uncommon for people to forget after a long day where they
parked. We have witnessed tired parents and kids looking for their car in
desperation, so don't let this be you! At the main entrance of Epcot you will go
through security and purchase your ticket if this is your first Disney park
visit. Then go to the entry gate after you purchase your ticket for Disney. You
will have to exchange your ticket voucher for a card or MagicBand at the
ticket counter. If you are not staying at a Disney Resort
you will get a card when you purchase tickets for your park admission. You will
have the option to upgrade to a Magic Band for an additional fee. Your Magic
Band or cards will be linked to your fingerprints, name, and my Disney
Experience app account. MagicBands and cards are non-transferable and will
allow you to enter Epcot with a valid admission with your fingerprint. It will
also allow you to reserve three fast passes online through the my Disney
experience app and check in at Fast Pass entrances. We had both the card and
the MagicBand and we prefer the Magic Band as it was more
convenient and made for a nicer souvenir The first area you'll encounter in Epcot
is the Future World sections. Most of the rides are located here
Tip 2: make sure to visit Club Cool by the fountain for complimentary samples of
coca-cola drinks from around the world. It's a great place for a sugar pick-me-up
Tip 3: download the my Disney experience app and link it to your card or Magic
Band. You only need one account but you can
enter each person in your party. You can immediately sign up for a Fast Pass for
popular attractions to save time in line even days ahead of your visit once you
have the app. Tip 4: all rides are indoor so you don't have to worry about
them being stopped when the rain comes Tip 5: if you don't have a smart phone
that works in the US you can get fast passes once you're at Epcot. The Fast
Pass kiosks are located before the fountain along the main walkway which
leads to Futureworld east and west Tip 6: Epcot has a single rider line for
Test Track. This line moves faster than the standby line and doesn't need a fast
pass. If you don't mind sitting next to a stranger then this time-saving tip
is for you. Tip 7: go visit all the attractions in the Futureworld first
then visit the Showcase Plaza rather than going back and forth which is
tiring when walking. When planning fast pass times, arrange to plan attractions in
the Futureworld in the first half of the day. The World
Showcase features 11 countries with a building, a movie, or a show that
highlights that country. All cast members are from the country in which they work
which is a nice bonus. The World Showcase area is more relaxed and is
geared towards adults. Alcoholic beverages from around the world are sold
at Epcot. There are no rides in the section with the exception of the boat
which crosses the lagoon. At the end of the night the fireworks show is
presented in this section of Epcot. Tip 8: Find a bench along the water. There are
several park benches that you can sit on along the waterfront but you'll have to
reserve them at least an hour before the show. You can also get a fast pass for
the fireworks viewing area Tip 9: bring a plastic refillable water bottle with you
you can refill it with ice and water for free at any of the restaurants just ask
the servers. You can also bring some snacks like fruits nuts or chips you
will easily save $30 to $50 per person in water and snacks. Tip 10: it
often rains in Orlando, especially June to September, so pack a rain poncho
We will have a link so that you can buy plastic refillable bottles and quality
rain ponchos online before going to the park under Epcot in destination Orlando at hipfig.com
Epcot is a true celebration of human potential and technological
innovation.
Happy Travels.
Go to hipfig.com for more information or go to our
Hipfig Travel Channel on YouTube and be sure to subscribe for regular updates
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