How to make shoes if you're a beginner, in shoemaking the process looks very
complicated and difficult. So today in this shoe making video.
I want to show you the entire process of making shoes,
the full process on how to make shoes so you will decide if this craft is for you
or not, so don't forget to subscribe and let's
watch the video.
This is very important for me to show you that shoe making process is not hard
and you as a total beginner can understand everything and then you can
make your own shoes and together with the shoe full to making process.
I want to show you what tools to use in each step of shoe making and you will
understand that you really don't need to have too much.
You need to have only minimal set of tools,
basic tools, and now you will learn what tools you
need to have. So first,
we will start from shoemaking process and I divided this full process on five
steps. I divided it on pattern making,
it is one of the most important steps in shoe making,
first step that you will need to learn. Then when you to cut,
and assembled, and sew your patterns.
You need to make sole and heels, also insoles and then lasting.
Okay? And you,
you understand it that I simplified the shoe making process to show you in the
best way, so you will understand it.
There are much more details in each step.
But for you as a beginner, it's enough to understand the full
process, to see the all steps together,
to understand how shoes are made. And we'll start from the first step that
is pattern making. I personally,
love pattern making because from this step will depend all the other steps.
First, we need to cover our last with masking
tape. This is the first step in shoemaking.
Here to cover your last with masking tape,
you need to have last, obviously,
and masking tape. I use simple masking tape that you
actually can buy in your local store. Next step is to apply your shoe design
on the last and here you need to know how to apply your shoe design correctly
because there are different rules that you need to follow.
And to apply it correctly on your last, you need to measure certain things and
you need to measure it with measurement tape.
So in this step you need to have measurement tape.
Next, after you will apply your design on the
last, you need to cut out this masking tape to
make basic pattern, and after you will cut masking tape
pattern, you need to attach it to the cardboard
and that's why in this step you need to have cardboard.
I use duplex. It's 120 grams.
It's very, very comfortable.
cardboard to work with, but if you don't have this cardboard,
you can use any other cardboard. It must be flexible enough but thick
enough as well. And to make this patterns,
for example, to add lasting allowance to your basic
pattern, you need to have compasses,
ordinary compasses that you also can buy in your local store.
So after you will make this basic pattern,
this is the pattern that includes all lines of your shoe design.
It's very important pattern because from this pattern you will develop all other
parts of your shoes, but before you will develop it,
you need to check your pattern.
And I teach in my courses and I also work in this way.
I check my partners from paper. It is the best way to check your
partners because if you will check it from leather,
you will not see the mistake, if you have them,
because leather stretches. And even if you have a mistake,
you will not see it. But we're working with ordinary paper.
You will see if you have mistake because if you have mistake,
the paper pattern will not fit perfectly your last you.
You'll see that your paper pattern does not lay good on the last.
Okay. And in this step of work,
you need to have ordinary paper A4 and here also you may use nails.
The length of these nails is about one millimeter.
But if you don't have nails, you can work with masking tape to attach
your paper pattern to the bottom of the last.
Okay? After you will check your pattern,
next is to make other parts of your pattern,
lining and upper. And here you also need to work with
cardboard, and compasses,
and also in pattern making
you also need to have the cutting board. Okay?
Because, if you will not have something to
protect your table, you will scratch the surface of your
table. So if you don't have special cutting
board, you can use some piece of plastic to
work with. Okay?
The main reason to have it, is to protect your table from
scratching. Okay?
So we're finished with the pattern making.
After, you will make a pattern of your upper in
lining, we need to move on to the next step:
to the cutting, assembling and sewing.
Hear you need to cut your leather, and here you see,
for example, this is one of the screenshots from one
of my courses. Now,
you will understand why we need those card boards for patents,
because we need to use them to cut leather.
So you see, this is the vamp of the moccasin,
and using this cardboard you will cut leather.
And to cut leather you, you don't need to have a special knife,
you can work with ordinary utility knife.
What you need to have here is good blade.
I used blade BD 100, and also here in this step,
you need to use pen, silver pen.
This is special erasable pen to mark certain points,
and mark's according those marks, you will assemble different parts of
your pattern. This is erasable pen for leather.
After you finish your work, you will erase those marks.
Next is, to assemble all parts together.
Before you will assemble all parts you need to skive certain places on your
pattern. For example,
to fold top line, you need to skive.
If you will, not scuff,
you'll have very thick edge and it will be very difficult to sew together the
upper and lining because of this thick edge or skive places where you need to
attach parts together. So in the step of assembling you need to
skive, that's why you need to have shoemaking
knife to skive edges. Then you need to have hammer,
because before you will sew those parts you need to attach those parts together
using contact glue and to hit with the hammer to touch them well.
Also you need to reinforce certain seams.
And for this reason you need to have two types of reinforcement tapes:
the wide allowance tape with width of 16 or 15 millimeters and narrow
reinforcement tape with width of 4 millimeters.
Using this narrow reinforcement tape, you will the folding,
very easy and beautiful. And also will reinforce the top line,
for example, using this reinforcement tape.
After you will assemble all parts together or during assembling
you will need to sew different pats. You know,
there are footwear types where you need to assemble one part and then sew it or
there is a footwear types where you to assemble all parts and only when you
need to sew all parts together. So here you need to have sewing machine
and during work use sometimes folding hammer.
But here I placed not folding hammer. I placed shoemaking hammer.
Why? Because you actually don't need to have
special folding knife. And also here in assembling,
I showed you the simple shoemaking hammer,
not the folding hammer, because you can work with this hammer in
the same way as you will work with special folding hammer.
It's good enough to make this assembling and to flat the seems after you will sew
all parts together. Okay,
so here you need to have some machine and you can work with shoemaking hammer
to flat seems to attach well, different parts also in assembly.
After you will
sew all parts together, you need to make insoles,
because this is the inner part on which you will attach all parts of your shoes.
You will attach the edges of the upper to the insole,
you will attach sole to the insole and heels.
So this part is very important and you can make your insoles from different
materials. In my courses I explained how to work
with cardboards and how to work with vegetable tan leather.
What is important here is to make pattern.
First you need to make pattern of the shoe bottom,
and then to make buttons for different parts of the insoles.
If you will make insoles from card boards.
There are two card, this one,
the shank board and texon board, texon board more flexible and thinner
then the shank board. Shank board is harder than texon board
for reason because here we need to have good support for arch zone and that's
why between those two materials in arch area we need to attach steel shank,
so in this step of insole making you need.
To have these tools, you need to have hammer to attach
cardboards together to create insoles and also you need to use your hammer to
make curve in the steel shank according to the core of the shoe last bottom,
and to attach all the parts together you need to work with contract glue and
after you will attach all parts together is the time to finish the edge of the
insolce,cardboard made from cardboard,
and for that reason, you need to have or Dremel,
to finish the edges, to sand the edges or or rasp next step
is lasting. This is the process where you will place
your leather upper on the last and we'll pull edges of the upper to attach them
to the insult.
In this process, you need to have this tool,
so you'd have pincers, you'd have nails,
you have two types of nails, the small ones that you will use to
attach the back part of your upper and long nails.
To attach the front part of the upper, you need to have hammer to hit well
edges of lasting allowance and to create beautiful shape on the hill and to
attach all this data, the edges to the insole unit to work
with contacts and you know during the last thing you need to work also with
two materials or one of them chemical nobleman material.
This is the material that you need to use to create stiffness,
or if you don't have this material, you can work with vegetable tan leather.
This parts we need to attach in front of this one in the top and also this one in
the back of your shoes.
This part will keep the shape of your shoes.
Okay. And also to finish the edges after when
you will last your upper, you need to work with rasp to send the
edges and create beautiful bottom of your shoes before you will move on to
the next step, the sole making,
here, the sole making okay,
yeah. Here I'm showing how to make sole from
leather. I personally love to work with vegetable
tan leather and I teach how to work with this leather to create different types
of soles. And to make these soles you need to have
pattern. So first,
you need to prepare pattern for the sole,
then cut it from vegetable tan leather and attach it to the bottom of your
lasted shoes. To create bottom,
to make flat bottom, to have beautiful and comfortable soles,
you need to work on the bottom using cork.
Cork here is the one of the materials that you need to use.
Also to make the soles you need to have vegetable tan leather,
to have shoemaking knife to skive edges of leather,
because leather, the vegetable tan leather is to thick
for women's shoes. And to have beautiful,
thin edge of the soles you need to skive the edge using the shoemaking knife.
Then after you will attach the sole, you need to attach it well using shoe
making hammer. Here you will use the handle of the
hammer to attach well these soles to the shoes.
You don't need to have any special tools,
only hammer and you will make beautiful soles.
You will attach them well. Now to attach the soles to the bottom of
your shoes, your need to have a contact glue.
And also to finish the edge of the soles you can work with rasp or with drill
dremel. After you will attach soles it's a time
to build heels.
Actually there are different types of heels that you can build before you will
attach the soles, but this is one of the most common heels
that you need to build after you will attach the soles to the finished shoes.
There are different materials to build heels.
Here I show you how to build heal using vegetable tan leather.
So, here in this step of heel making you
need to work with vegetable tanned to cut this leather and to skive leather in
different places to have beautiful and flat heels.
You need to work with shoe making knife,same
shoe making knife that you saw in other steps of shoe making.
You need to have same shoemaking knife to attach well all layers of our leather
stacked heels, because this type of heel we need to
build using few layers of leather, to get leather stacked heels.
So to attach layers of leather you need to work with contact glue and after you
will attach all these layers you need to finish your heels.
And to finish your heels you can work with dremel drill or with rasp.
Okay. And,
uh, I have to say that to build beautiful
heels and to have identical heels on both halves of our shoes,
because we have a pair of shoes, it's better to prepare a pattern for
each layer of your leather stacked heels and attach them layer by layer.
Only in this way you will have identical heels first of all,
and only in this way, you will need to work on the finishing
not too much time. Okay!
So here, the pattern making is one of the
important, most important things to have well done
heels. So after you will finish your heels,
this is actually your final step in shoe making.
I mean, this is the main final step in shoe
making. This is minimum tools that you need to
use in all steps of making. Of course,
later after you will get some experience in shoe making,
you will find some new tools that you need to use,
but to start making your shoes, it's enough to use those shoemaking
tools.
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